Here’s a quick opening note for those who enjoy and cellar Bordeaux. The 2015 vintage, which will be released soon, will be very tricky. One critic whose palate I trust named it a ti-tannic year. Many of the more forthright producers have already come forward addressing the difficulties of the vintage. Several claimed the maceration rates( amount of time the juice soaks with the skins seed and stems after extaction) were 20 percent of normal. Although it is counterintuitive, St. Estephe, normally chosen for its tannins, had less than normal levels. Laurent Dufau of Chateau Calon Segur, one the most highly regarded of the St. Estephe region, wrote that he actually pressed the matte to gather more tannin. I have read others who are comparing the 2015 to the excellent 2005 vintage. A careful reader would note that many added this type of caveat, “Although the tannins were lower in 2005, it actually tasted much more tannic compared to 2015, as this year we have this seductive ripe fruit," said Christian Seeley, who manages Chateau Pichon Baron and several other estates. However, many winemakers from farther south shortened maceration times to limit the extraction, especially in the northern Médoc, where there was a good deal more September rain. In short, avoid the futures until you can actually sample.
I came across a terrific Premier Cru Brut Champagne named Forget (for-gay)-Brimont Brut Premier Cru NV. Trust me, you won’t forget this lovely sparkler from a small, quality Champagne house. Here are some of its attributes. Made from 100 percent Premier and grand cru (30-40 percent) juice. Uses only free-run juice. Doesn’t use acid or soda to clean tanks and scant use of bisulfates, cool fermentation, 30 months on lees and employs homemade dosage, at 9 grams per liter, for the brut. What does all that mean, you may ask? High attention to detail and a lot of handwork. Best of all, you can find these for $432/case ($45/bottle) and I’ve seen them advertised for less. I say 2 points QPR and 91 McD. WS rated it 89. Pale golden, lovely bead, nicely aromatic, shows white flowers, green apple, citrus and a hint of hazelnut. Very nicely balanced. Sur lie (autolysis, which provides a creamy mouthfeel, breadlike and floral aroma, as well as reduced astringency) treatment provides a pleasing mouthfeel and some ginger notes. I was a bit surprised that I did not discern any biscuit, but it could have been an off day for me. Great aperitif or delicate appetizer accompaniment. Compares favorably with big-name NV French brut such as Pommery, Veuve, Taitenger, Roederer, that are often priced over $45. As with most NV they are consistent in their profile over the years.
Forget most of the politics. Being armed and trained would likely cut down the death toll at these horrific events which transpired the past several months. Disarming trained citizens will likely enhance the opportunity for these incidents for the terrorists. I do recognize that the way we sell guns can be pretty darn stupid but based on most federal government-run programs, I seriously doubt they have the solutions. There are many American vets who are well trained in suppressing this type event. In my opinion keeping them and anyone willing to be trained armed is a darn good idea. There is no way the police can patrol enough as it stands now. In order to make that happen, we would need a police state with armed men on every corner. It should be obvious at this point that even that extreme situation does not completely deter committed terrorists. I’m guessing these incidents will continue to escalate. When there are about 330 million people in the USA, finding a few thousand dedicated nut cases to perform this suicidal activity is truly no problem. Those terrorists who have infiltrated the USA are well trained at identifying and recruiting easily manipulated psychotic people to carry out their nefarious plots. And yes, I realize this is a wine column and placed the commentary at the end to allow you to exit. God bless you and keep you safe.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
