Share: 

Chase away the chill with some savory wines

January 15, 2018

Don't forget the 27th Annual Polar Bear Plunge on Super Bowl weekend, Sunday, Feb. 4. This is always fun. It benefits Special Olympics Delaware. Last year saw 3,602 plungers, who raised $900K.There is a full slate of events during the weekend. You can get specifics here: www.rehoboth.com/event-details.html?view=detail& eventID=223. No matter how cold it is, this will warm the cockles of your heart. Wow! I think one must revisit 1974 to recall weather this inclement at the beach. I hope all made it through with a minimum of discomfort. We had a minor kerfuffle. The water and drainage to our clothes washing machine froze. Fortunately a hair dryer and space heater plus some minor plumbing fixed the problem. Our current forecast reads 50 degrees, plus milder weather is on the way for Thursday to Saturday. Don't be fooled. Continue to dress warmly and drink lots of red wine.

A fine starting point is Marietta Cellars selections. Owner/ winemaker Chris Bilbro has been making value red blends for a while. Although he does produce Cab and Syrah at very favorable QPRs, most of his labels are blends of Zin, Syrah, Petit Sirah, Grenache or Viognier. The Old Vine Red Blend Lot 65, probably under $11, is a very strong 89 McD points.

Mild tannin and no oak to speak of, this is very approachable for drinking now. On the fullbodied, concentrated, complex palate, look for roast herbed meat, ripe cherry, pepper and blackberry. By the way, the lot number designates the blend, which changes year to year, so 66 is coming soon. I'll let you know.

These are winemaker's art wines. I have consistently rated these high 80s. If you wish to go upscale and if you can find it, the 2014 Marietta Gibson Block McDowell Valley Syrah is very lovely. Young and dark, and the bouquet is herbal with some eucalyptus and violets, but the diverse palate is where this shines. Look for fruit-driven sweetness from cherry, blackberry, leather and pie spice flavors with balancing acidity and medium-long finish, $30/McD 90. If you enjoy the Old Vine from Marietta and you wish to examine wine based on terroir, try to locate a Cline Old Vine Zin from Lodi in Contra Costra County. This should also run less than $12, McD 87. Look for floral and vanilla aromas, and cherry and ripe red raspberry preserve flavors.

Next, let's look at an Italian white. Masciarelli Villa Gemma Bianco Colline Teatine IGT 2016 from Abruzza is made of Trebbiano Toscano and 15 percent Cococciola. Ugni Blanc, one of France's widely planted white varieties, also well established in South America, is a primary Cognac and Armagnac ingredient.

The Bianco can be found under $15 and is a consistent production in the McD 88-point range. The 2016 took a silver medal at the Texsom International in 2017. Pale, straw-colored, opens aromatic with jasmine, banana, apple, and crisp apples and cleansing minerality on the palate. This wine is stainless fermented and meant to be consumed fresh.

Maybe awaiting the 2017 would be wise. Should be out in March or April. It is atypical in today's market. Light and tart, the Ugni needs a blend to add body. I was more impressed with earlier examples that blended in some Chardonnay as well. Just a matter of taste.

One of their reds, Villa Gemma Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva DOC, goes well with roast lamb, aged cheese and, the winemaker claims, dark chocolate. I'm thinking molé with that lamb would be a match made in Hyde Park.

These are treated nicely: long maceration (dark color, plenty of tannin), slow fermentation, full malolactic, 18 months in new French oak, then 24 months in the bottle before release. Do not confuse these lovely wines originating near the Adriatic with Montepulciano from Tuscany, which is made of Sangiovese. Look for plums, barrel spice, cocoa and licorice.

I am constantly amazed Masciarelli can go through so many costly and time-consuming steps, and still market the new release around $40. It is also worth noting that most appreciate. The 2003 came in at $41, now $99; the 2011 was $40, now mid-$70s.

Subscribe to the CapeGazette.com Daily Newsletter