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Choose Thanksgiving wines that go well with variety of foods

October 3, 2016

In preparation for fall oysters and Thanksgiving, let's review some complementary wines. We'll start with Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2014. I just sampled one, rated it 91 points but am adding 2 price points due to the on-sale price of $11.99. These cellar well. Trimbach is known for producing excellent, pure Alsatian wines that go so well with turkey, duck, sausage and their accompaniments. The 2014 Pinot Blanc is blended with 60 percent Auxerrois, typical for the region. They are cool fermented to enhance the beautiful stone fruit and bright acidity necessary to cut the sweet flavors and fat so common to fall fare. If you are an "ahrster" fanatic, please hold the lemon or cocktail sauce and sip this wine. You will be delighted. Another bonus is that Pinot Blanc can be served for at least two courses, and if punkin pie and mincemeat are dessert, one glass can be used throughout. I don't know about you, but glassware cleaning is usually an issue that disrupts the ball games. The 2014 is straw green with lovely green apple, beeswax, jasmine, mango and a touch of smoke aromas. Bright acidity supports the peach and herbal flavors through a very long, palate-cleansing finish. These may be the best vintage of the past six.

The Pinot Gris Reserve 2013 is excellent at $21, and the Gewürztraminer (I know it's a tough sell but the best are wonderful) Cuvee Des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2008 and 2011 (latest release) are outstanding. The Gewurtz may take some time to order, but if you are a fan it will be worthwhile. Expect to pay around $40-$45. For those who wish to buy USA Pinot Blanc, look for Valley of the Moon Sonoma 2012, 92 points under $23; Robert Foley Napa 2009 or Elk Cove Oregon 2013. Paisani should look for Kettmeir Pinot Bianco 2014 from Alto Adige, 91 points under $17.

If you are a bit of a rookie or a newlywed who is unsure of the audience, and you want a deeper look, you can't go wrong with this Better homes and Gardens article: www.bhg.com/thanksgiving/recipes/thanksgiving-wine-guide.

"What about Rieslings from Alsace?" you may ask. I fail to understand why so few writers and reviewers don’t discuss Riesling more frequently. This varietal wine is so versatile; it is delicious in its youth and ages wonderfully. Young Riesling from Alsace is known for its stone fruit, citrus and gravel minerality. Most are bright and finish cleanly. While many claim these will age a hundred years, I can't speak to that. I can say with certainty though that they will cellar and improve well past the 25-year range. Last year I had the pleasure of a 10 vintage vertical of Jos. Meyer Alsatian Grand Cru Riesling. Those I thought best were 2004, ‘08 and ‘10.

The older vintage had come together. The fruit notes had moved toward lanolin, which is typical, and minerality was more pronounced. In three of the vintages, I detected the ginger spiciness.

I usually find in Gewurztraminer. I find that very appealing because I enjoy spicy Asian and other ethnic foods. The Trimbach Geisberg 2009 is a 95-point wine that can be found; expect to pay around $95. Keep in mind these would be comparable in quality to 95-point white Burgundy Grand Cru (but priced far more favorably) or highest-quality Chardonnay.

If your idea of Riesling goes back to the 1980s and ‘90s, when many German winemakers were bottling Muller-Thurgau-driven sweet white blends or Blue Nun, maybe it is time to give another look. A great place to start would be the new release, F.E. Trimbach Alsace Riesling 2014. Dry, full-bodied, with racy acidity and taut minerality, 92 McD points under $15, then compare it to the 2010, of which there is still plenty around.

It may take your wine guy some effort, so help him out and ask for a case of mixed vintages. You should be able to score them under $250/case. Serve with oysters or at your fall dinner party, masking them preferably in bags because the bottle's shapes are distinctive. I'm sure your guests will be delightfully surprised when they are unmasked.

Try to make the Taste of Sposato 5K run/walk event this coming Sunday, Oct. 2, in Milton at the landscape facility on Hudson Road. You can view the particulars here: www.races2run.com/events/taste-of-sposato-wine-5k.

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