Concha y Toro has nice varietal series for good prices
Happy Mother’s Day to all you mothers who read about wine. Cherish your moms and grandmothers, my friends. My Mom is deceased and there isn’t a day that passes that I don’t remember her. I think, in most cases, we don’t become true adults until Mom moves on. A little unsolicited advice; keep in touch and do something nice for Mother’s Day. Inattention will likely bring longtime remorse. So much for the Hallmark fortune cookie. Lots to cover today.
Regular readers may remember I’m a fan of Chilean producer Concha y Toro. These folks are large producers who provide a darn nice varietal series of $8-$11 wine, under the Casillero del Diablo Reserva label. Recently, thanks to Creative Palate Communications, I had the opportunity to sample the 2015 release. The Chardonnay was pale green-tinged, lemon, well balanced with pleasing pineapple, citrus and vanilla aromas and varietal flavor, clean finish. Serve with cheese, fettucine alfredo and halibut; 86 points. A primarily Syrah Rosé was strawberry colored with rose tint, spiced berry nose, clean raspberry flavors supported by good acidity. Drink this around 60 degrees, 85 points. The Carmenere was a 2014; RRs know that most red wine is usually held back a bit before release. The Carmenere was intense, dark purple, with plum, black currant, dark chocolate and coffee, wet earth and oak spice nuance. On the palate, more plum and oaken spices with a soft mouthfeel. I was a bit surprised at the soft tannins in such a dark-colored wine; 87 McD, 2 price points. These will keep, so if you enjoy them grab a case and store in a dark, cool space. The Malbec 2014 was a great bargain, 89 with 2 price points. Again very dark purple, nearly opaque, with dark fruit and spice nose. Plums, cherry and duff with spice, cocoa and some herbal notes on the palate, very complex wine for the money. This from a guy who is not a fan of Malbec; it's well-made, kudos to the winemaker.
I don’t normally write favorably of $100 bottles but the 2010 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva deserves the ink. All the big names loved this wine. In fact, Suckling writing in WS laid on 100 points, and the other likely suspects gave 96 points and up. As you may surmise, the price erupted. Renieri normally runs in the mid-$50 range. It popped to $120 before I had an opportunity to sample some. Recently I found some on sale at $99, still a bit pricey but worthwhile for big buck buckaroos and Paolo. Lovely dark garnet-colored; its bouquet is enticing. Cherries, blackberries, violets, licorice and pie spice tantalize. On the palate chalky minerality, firm smooth tannins and appropriate acidity support the juicy fruit. These are cellar dwellers and will store at least 10 more years. 97 McD, no price points.
Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG was named for a 19th century exorcist. The name means “cast out the devils.” You know I like Sagrantino and with a name like that I had to try some. This is currently the oldest family-owned winery in the Montefalco appellation. Please try to locate the 2008, as these take a long time in the cellar. I bought a few when Tanzer laid on a 92. They are just starting to come into their own and will cellar into 2030. The 2008 can be found well under $50. Very dark ruby-colored with a lovely bouquet of dark cherry, violets, leather and licorice. The creamy palate is transformative with an interesting array of red fruit, cranberry, chocolate, balsamic and herbal notes. The tannins are not quite incorporated but have been greatly diminished since I originally sampled the wine. These are slightly alcoholic at 15.5 percent but not offensively so. I recognize the name is difficult but copy it, then present it to your wine store buddy for ordering. There is still some of the 92-point 2003 around.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
