Dewey Beach Club returns with a bright, new look

It’s a rare fan of the Dewey Beach Way of Life who doesn’t remember Bill and Theresa Sponaugle’s Dewey Beach Club - the southernmost watering hole in Dewey. The late Marvin Guberman and his wife Suzi were originally set to open the restaurant in 1989, but when Marvin was injured in a car accident, the Sponaugles stepped in and made Dewey Beach Club a go-to hangout for 20 years. Marvin passed away in August of last year.

Bill and Theresa sold the business to Mitch King, who finally settled on the name Port Dewey, paying homage to The Starboard, the building owner’s landmark restaurant on the opposite end of Dewey Beach. You boaters out there will get it (assume you are looking at Dewey from the Atlantic side).

Mitch was joined by his nephew, Zack King, and Port quickly drew crowds with its fresh fish dishes, great burgers and lively bar fueled by Mitch’s dry wit (and fresh grapefruit crushes). Zack branched out to open Old Bay Steak & Seafood in the old Roadhouse spot in Midway. Old Bay was basically a placeholder until he realized his dream of distilling his own vodkas, rums and gins. Once he had jumped through seemingly endless regulatory hoops, Old Bay was out, and Delaware Distilling Company was in. (Don’t give up on Mitch King, however - I have been sworn to secrecy, but we might soon see him carrying keys behind yet another bar.)

Last year, Starboard partner and Dewey Beach native Steve “Monty” Montgomery sold the Port Dewey building to Harrisburg, Pa. natives Tom and Jeff Treacy. This time it was Jeff’s dream that was to be realized, and last Wednesday it came true in the form of a respectful nod to the original occupant, Dewey Beach Club.

The father-and-son team has brought the venerable restaurant into the present with a striking hardwood floor, light woods and paint colors, and wall decorations that make the best of the huge picture windows that face the east. The gigantic aquarium is gone, as is the knee wall that ran the length of the restaurant. On my first visit I was sure they had enlarged the building.

“Nowadays people like to share and taste different things,” Jeff tells me. To that end the centerpiece of his menu is a selection of 16 “small plates.” I put quotes around the words because they are very generous small plates. He can call them tapas if he wants, but they are more like deliciously abbreviated entrees. Childhood memories came flooding back when I saw the ham croquettes on the menu. That tribute to mom’s well-worn Joy of Cooking is available as both a small plate and as an entrée. Another surprise is Jeff’s modern take on the traditional neon diner staple, cucumber salad. This one’s got apples, basil and sliced almonds in a light rice wine vinaigrette.

Several surprises jump out of the menu, including a Spanish omelet and a New York breakfast sandwich. Who doesn’t like breakfast for dinner! Our Canadian neighbors are represented with Jeff’s version of poutine - kicked up to Dewey standards with pork belly, parmesan cheese fries, and … wait for it … an up egg!

I don’t want to give away all of the surprises, but I do want to tell you that the hamburger at Dewey Beach Club is exceptional. Jeff grinds dry-aged beef, packs it as loosely as possible, grills it, then tops it with bacon and blue cheese. On my first visit, Jeff surprised me by remembering the (gentle) scolding I gave a local chef several years ago because his hamburger roll was not the best it could be (he and I are now fast friends). When the burger arrived at my bar seat, the roll was lightly buttered and grilled to a delicate crisp on both sides with a golden, eggy top. The warm roll cradles its treasure in exactly the right way, keeping all the toppings and slatherings in their assigned positions. This will be the hamburger roll to which other hamburger rolls go to learn to be hamburger rolls. Do not change this roll, Jeff. I know where you live.

Check out the new Dewey Beach Club. The initial hours through April are Wednesdays and Thursdays from 4 p.m. to close, and noon to close on Fridays and Saturdays. Trust - but verify - at 302-260-9017.


Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.