Each year I start this week’s column with a similar admonition. Please don’t use Happy Memorial Day as your salutation. There is little happiness associated with Memorial Day for many of us. Words have meaning. The choice of the words happy or celebration is odd, unless it is celebration of the lives of those who died in service to the country. Still a reach for me. Although I find the haunting refrain of “Taps” lovely and the crack of the volley evocative, they bring sadness, the welling of tears and a surge of remorse brought forward by my sense of loss for comrades in arms during service to our country, while I pray for their departed souls and peace. I normally spend Memorial Day contemplating the folly of sending our young men to distant places to die, for people who often won’t take care of their own issues and show very little gratitude when their chestnuts are snatched from the fire. It is tough to segue from that lugubrious opening to a wine column. However, I’m sure nearly all my departed military friends would be happy to hoist one in memory of their fallen buddies.
Marques Casa Concha Cab 2013 and ‘11, from Concha y Toro’s gravel-rich Puente Alto, Maipo Valley vineyards were given good grades from all the likely suspects, and I hope you bought some on my recommendation. They are ready to drink now and very lovely. The 2011 is excellent. It is difficult to find well-made, oak-casked and -aged 100 percent Cabernet at a normal opening cost around $19/bottle when you buy a case. Those who have any of the 2007 platinum award winner left, drink it yesterday. The new release (these folks age their cab in oak before bottling) 2015, as I have come to expect, is another wonderful value Cab, 92 McD points, 2 of which are value points. Deep, dark ruby color opens to an interesting mixed bouquet of cherries, blackberries, earth notes and perhaps a bit of green peppers. It evolves to balanced acid, tannin, fruit and alcohol frame with medium body and a long finish. The finish has some gravelly minerality, and a touch of smoke and peppers.
I wish to recommend to my younger readers, especially restaurant folks who want to add a cab vertical to their list, that these are an ideal selection to start your list or cellar. You can buy a 4-vintage vertical case for a very modest price if your wine shoppe/broker will do the work. I don’t remember a vintage in the past 15 years where this particular label didn’t score over 89 points. Just keep in mind this is not a cellar monster that lasts 25 years, in most cases. However, it will normally lay down for 10 plus. I have enjoyed some 2006 recently that is still drinking well.
Domaine de Bila-Haut L’esquerda Cotes du Roussillon 2014, blended of 60 percent Syrah and 40 percent Grenache destemmed and aged in foudres is dark, inky purple, with loads of minerality and wet earth characteristics, medium body, fine tannins, lots of black and blue fruit flavors. RP laid on his hands with 95-97 points for the 2014 and 96-99 for 2015. As expected, the price spiked well over $40. If you were readers here, you have held your fire. Both have returned to very realistic prices around $20. They will take some work. It will be well worth your time. Buy cases; these are “merveilleux!” I’m not as frothing at the mouth as some are, but I can get to 96 by adding 3 price points under $275/case. Regulars are well aware I am a big fan of Chapoutier and the remarkable work he is doing with Bila Haut. This man is the ne plus ultra of “follow the winemaker.” Value, value, value! I want to thank my friends at Creative Palate for helping me to stay in touch with Chapoutier’s product.
Reread the opening paragraph. Although it is a bit heavy, I’m not up to change it. Rather let me add, there is every reason to enjoy this weekend. The bottom line is, Memorial Day was enshrined to help remind us of all those who gave their lives to allow us the privilege.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
