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Neighboring wineries will likely produce similar wine

October 17, 2016

After all the rah-rah and hoo-haw, I missed the big event. May I apologize to those whom I committed to meet at Sodelfest. Unforeseen circumstances called me away. I sure hope those who did attend found everything up to snuff, and I am looking forward to hearing from you. Please no cuss words, locker room banter or groping if we run into each other.  

Last week I had the opportunity to sample several dry white wines. They were very nice. Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc 2015 goes especially well with flounder almandine. I found some lovely thick fillets at the fishmongers. Thick fillets are best for almandine in my opinion. Unlike many, I prefer to use dry white wine in place of the lemon most recipes call for. Oftentimes lemon will cause a bitter flavor due to the lack of ripe lemons in our area. The 2015 opened pale and green-tinged with gooseberry and passionfruit aromas. On the palate crisp lemon, ripe peaches and more tropical fruit rode a very crisp mineral frame through a clean, long finish; 89 points buy under $17.

Two Albarinos from Galicia in the Spanish coastal green belt. The grape juice is normally vinified to provide full-flavored white wine with intense flavors and bright acidity. Bodegas Castro Martin Albarino Sobre Lias (Family Estate Selection) 2014 was made using cool fermentation and spent 5-6 months sur lie. Its location close to the cool Atlantic brings an interesting briny mineral nose with some nectarine fruit aromas. On the racy palate, peaches and pears are supported by lemony mineral acidity. There are traces of yeast in the finish, 90 points under $19. I've seen cases advertised under $205. Another from the same region, Valdamor Namorio Albarino 2014 enjoys a similar profile. Galloni rated them 89 points. I was surprised at the similarity of the two wines. A careful look reminded me that neighboring wineries with similar production methods, terroir and lees resting will likely give us wines that are similar. Same price and a good QPR . Goes great with lobster tails and drawn butter.

For the Malbecians, here's the real thing and priced right at $190/case. Cahors is said to be where Malbec originated. In the region it is also known as Cot Noir and/or Auxerrois. The first seeds fell out of a sheepskin sac of lunch raisins belonging to Luigi Augustus, a Roman soldier, during Pope Innocent III's Albigensian Crusade. Many historians also claim Luigi planted the seeds for the Dominican Order and the Medieval Inquisition. Domaine du Theron Cahors Cuvee Prestige 2011 was very dark, nearly opaque and quite tannic when I first sampled some in 2014. Dark berries, chocolate and barrel spices told me to let them sit. The 2011 are still around and still priced right.

The color has lightened a bit and the tannins have mellowed. Look for blackberries and boysenberries, still plenty of chocolate, pencil lead and barrel spice. These still have plenty of smooth tannic grip and sufficient fruit and acidity to support all through a powerful finish. Try them with roast meat before the grill is put away or enjoy them as a stand-alone. These will cellar through 2020 minimum and are a steal under $200/case.

I was asked about boysenberries and am here to tell you few know from whence they came. They are said to be a blackberry and a loganberry or red raspberry or all three clone. They were developed in the 1920s by horticulturalist Rudolph Boysen for Walter Knott of Knott's Berry Farm fame. Yes, my friends, GMOs.

However, they fell out of favor commercially due to their fragility and short shelf life. Do not confuse with loganberries, which are a raspberry-blackberry cross propagated from seed in 1881 by James Harvey Logan a lawyer and amateur horticulturalist from Santa Cruz, Calif.

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