Onions find a home in hot, hearty soups

During the recent unwelcome cold snap, I found myself craving soup. Not a light broth scattered with vegetables, but something hot and hearty. As it happened, our supply of onions was growing tired. Some had sprouted while others were starting to soften and dimple. The answer to finding a good home for them was onion soup.

As you may know, onions range widely in size, color and flavor. They can be divided into two primary types: spring/summer onions and storage onions. Both are fairly large, globe-shaped bulbs with thin, papery skin over tightly packed layers of juicy flesh.

Spring and summer onions are so called based on when they’re harvested. Typically mild and often sweet-tasting, these are grown in warm-weather climates. Varieties include Maui onions (available from April through June), Vidalia onions (May and June) and Walla Walla onions (July and August).

Storage onions are cultivated in colder-weather climates and require a period of curing after harvest to allow their skins to dry before being shipped to market. These have a characteristic sharp, pungent flavor and are named for the color of their skins: white, yellow and red.

When shopping for onions, select those that feel heavy and firm with crisp, dry outer skin. Give them a sniff test and avoid any with an obvious onion-y odor or patches of mold, signs they’re likely old and starting to rot. You’ll also want to reject any that show signs of sprouting or soft spots.

Store onions at room temperature away from heat and light. Keep them in a wire basket or perforated bowl designed to allow air to circulate below. In keeping with their name, storage onions will last for about a month under the right conditions, while summer onions should be used within a week or so.

One fact that may come as a surprise is that onions should never be stored in the same container as potatoes. Moisture and ethylene gas emitted from the potatoes can cause onions to spoil much more quickly. And, if you purchase onions at a grocery instead of the farmers market, check to make sure the automatic sprinklers haven’t been watering the onions in the produce aisle.

Although recipes often call for a specific type of onion, it may not always matter. If the onion will be sautéed or simmered the varieties may be used interchangeably, even the red onions (they’ll lose their color when cooked). If the onion is used raw, the sweeter spring and summer varieties are often the best choice. For a splash of color in a salad, red onions work; they’re sharp but not biting.

For our onion soup, I (mostly) followed Julia Child’s instructions, the first of which is to steam and then sauté sliced onions in a heavy saucepan. Either white or yellow onions are fine in this dish, just take care to keep the slices the same size, about one-quarter of an inch wide. To prevent weeping from the stinging compounds in the onions, try placing the cutting board in the sink and running water over them as you chop.

As you can see in the side-by-side photo, what starts as a large amount of sliced onion is reduced significantly during the long, slow cooking. After the steaming step, a sprinkle of sugar is added to aid the caramelization. I deviated from Julia here and used brown sugar, which adds a deeper flavor than granulated white. No matter which sugar, this slow process of caramelizing requires patience and constant attention to ensure even browning.

Her recipe calls for white wine or vermouth, but you may substitute apple cider vinegar, Balsamic vinegar or spiced rum for an interesting addition to the layers of flavor. The final splash of cognac isn’t necessary, but gives a heady finish to the soup.

We found the rich onion essence quite satisfying and perfectly warming on a cold day. I’ve included my adaptation of Julia’s onion soup recipe as well as a simple tart which offers another way to use those beautifully caramelized onions.

Onion Soup*

5 C thinly sliced onions
2 T butter
1 T olive oil
1 t salt
1 t brown sugar
2 T flour
2 qts beef stock
1/4 C spiced rum
salt and pepper, to taste
3 T cognac

Melt butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add olive oil and stir in onions. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the cover and raise the heat to medium. Sprinkle in salt and brown sugar. Cook, stirring often, until onions are a deep golden brown, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle in flour and stir to combine. Deglaze the pan with beef stock, dissolving all the browned bits on the bottom and sides of the pot. Add spiced rum and salt and pepper, to taste. Simmer for 30 minutes and stir in cognac just before serving. *adapted from Julia Child

Onion Tart

8-inch pastry shell
6 C minced onions
1/4 C butter
1 T olive oil
2 T flour
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
2/3 C heavy cream
1 t salt
1/4 t white pepper
1/8 t nutmeg
2/3 C grated Swiss cheese

Preheat oven to 375 F. Bake the pastry for 10 minutes; remove from oven and set aside. Melt the butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add olive oil and onions. Cook, stirring often until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Sprinkle with flour and stir to combine; remove from heat. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs, egg yolk and cream until smooth. Add salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheese and cooked onions; stir to combine. Pour into the prepared pastry shell and bake until puffed and golden, about 30 minutes.


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