Oregon winery products can suit any palate
Still Oregon, folks. Just want to repeat that the 2014 season was excellent and you can’t miss with nearly anything from that vintage. We visited a relatively young winery, J. Christopher. Jay Somers is the rising star owner and winemaker. My wino pals will recognize the winemaker’s name due to his association with Ernst Loosen, owner of Dr. Loosen, the famous German wine company, When Loosen moved into the Oregon wine scene, he and Somers became acquainted, then friendly. He hired Jay as winemaker for his rapidly expanding production. Their collaboration is a roaring success. Somers decided to grow and process his own wine and Ernst got on board to buy and plant Apassionata Vineyard, named for their joint venture in 2010. Appassionata was named for the first PN they produced together. The winery is located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA just outside Newberg, Ore., that fosters modern grape-producing techniques and a traditional Burgundian method of production. Jay has been making wine for 15 years. He founded J. Christopher brand in 1996. His philosophy, which I wholeheartedly endorse, is to let the vines produce at their natural rate, don’t manipulate them, then make them into small-lot, handcrafted wines that express the terroir. Until recently J. Christopher wines were produced from sourced grapes. However, the site of the new vineyard is coming into production. I was taken by the quality he has managed to extract from a young vineyard.
A very well-informed, lovely young man named Sebastian Rake conducted our tasting. Barbara and I were taken by the depth of offerings and the wealth of knowledge he provided. Our conversation indicated he and Somers have worked together for quite a while. He explained that the site selection was chosen due to the variety of soils and exposures available in the vineyard. He claimed that a recent geologic survey found 15 soil varieties. It was informative to taste wines from the same vineyard and vintage that showed several different profiles, which careful crafting can deploy. So let's start with the Sauvignon Blanc Willamette Valley 2014 made in a European style reminiscent of Sancerre. No fruit bombs for Somers. This SB is cool-fermented, matured four months in stainless steel, acacia casks, with no malolactic fermentation, providing classic, aromatic SB showing a grassy nose with lemon and grapefruit nuance. On the palate, tangerine and passion fruit with mouthwatering acidity. This vintage of the SB includes the first fruit harvested from Appassionata vineyard. Here’s the great news - $20, 92 McD points.
The Pinot Noirs were lovely. The Chehalem Mountain Nuages (clouds in French) 2013, 91 points, was fruit forward with straw - and raspberries. Finished with a nice tannic grip that showed some pumice minerality. Needs two years and should drink well through late 2020s. The Eola Hills Lumiere 2013 was darker in color, fruit forward and slightly richer than the Nuages. These also showed the volcanic minerality from the soil. The 2012 was chosen a wine of the year by WS, which caused a price spike. It is back into bargain range around $35, 92 points. The Olenik Vineyards 2012 was off the scale at 94 points. Sadly, only 70 cases were produced and they are gone. The 2013s are no slouches though, sourced from a warmer site planted in marine sediment soil, 99 cases produced. 2013 is a riper, darker wine with full-bodied fruit flavors, excellent mid-palate structure and firmer tannins. It's a riper wine with higher alcohol, at 13.5 percent, 92 points when bought at $50 or less. Last but far from least is Lia’s Vineyard PN 2013, which is on the market around $50.
Another small production at 73 cases, Lia’s Vineyard is in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, just up the hill from the Olenik Vineyard, showing a completely different style. It's sourced from mature Wadensvil clone vines, also grown in volcanic soil. Lovely red fruit aromas with pine tree nuance. It is fine and juicy on the palate with very subtle tannins and a long, elegant finish.
The way to go is to try to buy a split case. Mine just arrived on Friday, and I placed the case in the cellar cork side down. Even the SB will improve with a year.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
