Potatoes are more than just a staple

One food that consistently receives mixed reviews is the potato. Originating in Peru over 7,000 years ago, the potato was initially shunned by Europeans, who considered it poisonous. Now, potatoes are widely consumed as a staple across the globe, except where calorie-conscious consumers treat it as undesirable because of its starchy, high-carb nature.

However, if you consider the nutritional profile, potatoes are a good source of fiber, vitamins and trace minerals, all for under 100 calories (about the same as a single homemade chocolate chip cookie). There are dozens of potato varieties, ranging from the familiar Russet to dainty fingerlings to the startlingly purple Adirondack Blue cultivar, all with different textures and flavors.

I wonder if the source of the potato’s less-than-stellar reputation may have more to do with how they are prepared. Most restaurant-baked potatoes are coated in a layer of seasoned olive oil to crisp the skin and add flavor. When they’re served, accompaniments include sour cream, grated cheese and bacon bits.

We won’t mention French fries or home fries, both of which require lots of oil in their preparation. Mashed potatoes can be an improvement if yogurt or buttermilk is substituted for the cream and butter typically added when they’re whipped. Sliced or cubed roasted potatoes are a good alternative. All they need is a very small dollop of seasoned oil to ensure a crisp, flavorful side dish.

One potato recipe that appears quite regularly on the internet is the Hasselback potato. Not to be confused with the recently retired NFL quarterback, Matt Hasselbeck or Baywatch star David Hasselhoff, this potato dish is named for the restaurant in Stockholm, Sweden, at the Hasselbacken Hotel where it was invented.

Some citations assert the dish is as old as the 1700s, but recent research supports its appearance on the restaurant’s menu sometime during the 1950s. While named for the location where they were first prepared, alternate names are more descriptive, such as the accordion potato or pillbug potato.

To make the Hasselback potato, a single potato is sliced into thin wedges not all the way through, but left connected along the bottom. They’re baked until the layers begin to fan out, offering nooks in which to place seasonings. The second stage of baking crisps the exterior, while leaving the interior soft and fluffy.

Cutting the potato in this fashion is not without a few challenges. If I had planned ahead, I could have purchased a specially designed Hasselback potato slicer: a piece of wood in which a depression has been carved, basically resembling the shallow bowl of a wooden spoon.

An alternative technique is to place the scrubbed potato on a cutting board, nestled between the handles of two wooden spoons. As you push the knife down through the potato, you can’t get all the way to the bottom and separate a slice; instead the slices stay connected on the bottom.

The potatoes in the photo were my first attempt, giving me some insights for the next time. I think I might have liked thinner slices, so the edges could have crisped more, although the creamy potato essence was delicious. These were lightly brushed with olive oil, baked for a while so they could open a little, then drizzled with melted butter and garnished with sliced green onions.

I’ve included a recipe for this simple and straightforward version of Hasselback potatoes along with one that features the bright flavors of garlic and rosemary. You can also season the oil or butter with paprika or cayenne to add color as well as flavor. Just like the toppings for baked potatoes, there’s no limit to what you can add to the Hasselback.

Basic Hasselback Potatoes

4 Russet potatoes
salt & pepper
1 T olive oil
1 T melted butter
1/2 t white pepper
sliced green onion

Preheat oven to 425 F. Coat the inside of a shallow baking dish with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Scrub the potatoes to remove any dirt; cut out any eyes or green spots. Place the potato on a cutting board between the handles of two wooden spoons. Cut slits in the potatoes between 1/8 and 1/4-inch apart, leaving the bottom intact; use the point when your knife hits the spoon handle as a guide. Place the potatoes, slit side up, in the prepared baking pan. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Brush the tops and sides of the potatoes with the olive oil. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove pan from the oven. Melt butter and stir in white pepper. Brush the melted butter into the open slits. Bake until the potatoes are easily pierced in the middle and the edges are crispy, about another 35 minutes. Garnish with sliced green onion. Yield: 4 servings.

Rosemary & Garlic Hasselback Potatoes

4 Russet potatoes
1/4 C olive oil
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 minced garlic cloves
salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil; set aside. Place oil, garlic, and rosemary in a small saucepan; heat on medium-low for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. While oil is cooking, cut slits in the potatoes about 1/8-inch apart, making sure not to cut all the way through. Place potatoes in prepared pan. Season with salt and pepper, then brush them with about half of the infused oil. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove pan from the oven and brush open slits with remaining oil, making sure to reach into the slices. Bake another 30 minutes and serve hot. Yield: 4 servings.


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