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Sparklers are delightful when weather warms

May 8, 2017

The past few days’ prelude to summer were very enjoyable for me. I forced myself to read my notes and sample enough wine to write this week’s bon mots. Let’s start with some housekeeping. Recently there has been a spate of articles describing the 2015 Bordeaux release. Most are comparing it to the 2010, and the pre-release prices are up compared to the last few vintages. Don’t buy the hype! You may remember when 2009 Chateau Pontet-Canet came on, and, “Best since ever, buy with both hands” screamed the headlines. Hold your fire, said McD. Sure enough, the 2010 came on more highly rated and the 2009 took a downtick.

Please be advised, if your time horizon is eight years or more, the 2015 is a decent buy, 95 points at $112. FYI, the 96-point 2010 came on at $184 and is now $270. I expect the ‘15 will rise above $250 by 2022. Buy a case, sell six bottles = free great wine. If you want an informed, in-depth look at 2015, search “snooth vintage update bordeaux 2015.”

For the whimsical, Chateau Miraval Cotes de Provence Rosé Pitt-Jolie Perrin 2016 from the estate owned by Angie and Brad is on sale for under $20. We enjoyed a bottle on that 80-degree day. Cherry blossom pink-colored with aromas of fresh fruit and spring flowers, refreshing acidity, minerality and a saline finish.

Lovely aromatics, 89 points. You may want to wait; it’s likely to be on sale soon. Les Vignes de Bila Haut Pays D’Oc Rosé is a fair price for about $15. The 2016, 78 percent Grenache, 14 percent Cinsault and 8 percent Syrah, is quite different from 2015 which was 55 percent Grenache and 45 percent Syrah. Pale salmon-pink with a hint of raspberries, citrus and mineral flavors. Marchesi di Frescobaldi Tenuta Ammiraglia Rosé Tuscany 2016 is nicknamed Alie. These are lovely Italian Rosé produced by a venerable, well-known name. They run $18-$19 and deserve an 88 McD. Pale pink-colored, they open to flowers, strawberries and lemon zest aromas. Fruity with cherry, melon notes and earthen minerality on the palate.

Sparklers are also wonderful when it’s warm. I was very fortunate to sample a 2005 Charles Heidsieck Brut Vintage Champagne; 2005 was a terrific year. Andreas Larssen, formerly a Best Sommelier in the World honoree, said, “mature palate with saffron and spices, balanced freshness, elegant fruit, some complexity and smooth finish, 93 points.”

Expect to pay around $100 for this vintage. These spent eight years on lees, folks, hence the premium price. Never met the man, but I’m going with “best in the world.” I do think I detected some apricot, and it showed pretty golden color. Castell de Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé touched both bases, a sparkling Rosé.

This comes in a wonderfully packaged bottle with a floral print sleeve shrink-wrapped over it. Inside is an attractive, intense pink, effervescent Catalan cava. This 88-point (Tanzer) lovely can be had under $15. It took silver at Decanter World Wine Awards in 2016 and bronze in 2015. Pale pink, lightly fruity on the front of the palate and yeasty on the back. Very dry, complex, round and rich. Finishes cleanly. Masottina Prosecco di Treviso Extra Dry DOC is pale straw-colored with sparkling effervescence.

These are not crackling dry, nor are they sweet at 14g/L. Remember, my friends, with sparklers, Brut is not the most dry. Following is the scale for 5 oz glass: Brut Nature (aka Brut Zero) 0-2 calories 0-3 g/l residual sugar (RS) is equivalent to < 1/6 teaspoon sugar. Extra Brut 0-5 calories, 0-6 g/l RS is equivalent to < 1/4 teaspoon sugar . Brut 0-7 calories, 0-12 g/l RS is equivalent to < 12 teaspoon sugar. Extra Dry 7-10 calories, 12-17 g/l RS is equivalent to 1/2-3/4 teaspoon sugar. Dry 10-20 calories, 17-32 g/l RS is equivalent to 3/4-1 teaspoon sugar. Demi-Sec, 20-30 calories, 32-50 g/l RS is equivalent to 1-2 teaspoons sugar. Doux over 30 calories, 50+ g/l RS is equivalent to over 2 teaspoons sugar. And there you have it.

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