Time to get a jump on summer sparklers
Although I still have tons of notes from my West Coast run, my backlog of sampled wines is also building. So, this week, let’s look at a diverse selection of possible summer sparklers. Bisol Crede Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Spumante Brut is a delightful straw-colored sparkler with a slight green tinge and prolific bead. It has an elegant floral opening that runs to a fruit nose with hints of pear and apple. Pairs well with sashimi, tempura fish and sushi; 88 points priced under $22. Bisol recommends with pea soup or risi e bisi, but I have not tried that combo. Ruffino is best known for those Chianti in a basket bottles. However, I just sampled their Prosecco DOC NV, 100 percent Glera Extra Dry (remember, folks, “extra dry” is a bit sweeter than “Brut”). This is a porch sipper priced under $15 and 86 points McD. The nose is very appealing with acacia and hawthorn, and the apple flavors and crisp acidity leave you asking, “May I have another, sir?” The very pretty Sparkling Rosé is 11 percent ABV, made Extra Dry and was especially appealing. Lovely strawberry pink with nose-tickling spritz and a pleasing bouquet of fresh strawberries and roses. The palate is acid bright and crisp with more berry flavors and a bit of peach at the finish, 87 points, under $15. Last for this week is a name I write of often, Bisol Desiderio Jeio Cuvee Rosé Spumante Brut 11.5 percent ABV. Another pretty rose/pink wine with an intense rose aroma tucked into a bouquet of berries, citrus and lychee. Notable due to being made of merlot and Pinot Nero. This is just about Brut, finishes cleanly and pairs well with crab balls, clams, smoked salmon and summer canapés; 87 points under $14.
Mulderbosch from South Africa is another favorite label of mine. You may remember the Faithful Hound write-up several months back. Charles Banks and Terroir Group out of Cali bought them in 2011. Today it is their Sauvignon Blanc 2014. This SB has been wandering around in the 86-88-point range since 2010. It is classic style SB, clean, clear color with pale green hue with a varied bouquet of flint, elder, grapefruit, graphite and figs. On the palate sage, queen olives, quince and more green fig. Plenty of acidity supports the fruit through a long, cleansing finish. Perfect for the seafood palette available in our local fish markets and restaurants, 88 McD, under $14. These will keep thru 2020. If you want a real treat try some Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard Series Block W Stellenbosch 2013
This is one of three high-end Chenin Blanc produced by Mulderbosch. Most folks don’t get to sample this quality. They therefore eschew Chenin Blanc or place them in the Sutter Homes White Zin, Blue Nun, Lancers Rosé category. Block W 2013 is powerful, concentrated, and intense with rich pear and peach fruit, as well as fresh citrus and spice characters. Palate reveals lovely focus with tangerine and mineral brightness. Rich, fresh, beautifully dry. Superb stuff, and it will age through 2020.
2013 Faithful Hound Red, a Bordeaux blend was written up here a few months ago at 88 points and had New World qualities of aroma and flavor. The 2014 are even better for my taste. Much more in the Bordeaux tradition. Dark claret-colored, it opens to a typical juicy, cassis, plum, barrel spice nose of sandalwood, white pepper and anise.
On the full round palate cherries, dark chocolate, tobacco and a chalky minerality with appropriate acidity and slightly elevated smooth tannins that say lay me down. This is Bordeaux quality at a great price under $20; 90 points and terrific QPR for cellarers. If you are in the market for Leviathan, another Cali Red blend made by Andy Erickson, look back for the 2010; I wrote it up at 92 points a few years ago. It is still around under $50 and in the perfect window. The 2012s are very nice at 89 points under $40 but need time.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
