Wine tasting gets upgrade with winemaker’s own comments

While reading A Cultural History of Food, I came across the name Guillaume Tirel, better known to serious foodies as Taillevent, a great French chef, whose seminal work “Le Viandier” was written during the reign of Phillip VI about 1326-47.

The earliest available copy was done between 1373-80 for Charles V or VI. Unlike most medieval people, Tirel lived to the ripe old age of 80. Chefs of yore used open fireplace, portable ovens inserted into the coals, trivets, pulleys, hinged brackets and enfants de cuisine (scullery boys) to handle the laborious maneuvering it took to accomplish the water and food gathering, fueling, cooking, scouring, etc.

The chef, as sergeant at arms, was responsible for all of these functions and in Tirel’s case oversaw a staff in the neighborhood of a hundred, plus servers. Here’s a link to “Le Viandier,” www.telusplanet.net/public/prescotj/data/viandier/viandier1.html.

You will note there are few measurements or cooking times. Chefs of the time were highly regarded and expected to have a great wealth of knowledge; therefore the recipes were usually guidelines. The book is broken down into very short segments, an easy read. Le Viandier is especially germane for the many home and professional chefs who send me so many nice email queries about food. 

Thanks to Paul Karp, my always helpful contact at Vintage Imports, my primary associate taster Barbara and I had the opportunity to sample the Duckhorn and Goldeneye new releases on Monday at Confucius in Rehoboth. Tip of the toque to Shawn and Danielle Xiong, owners of Confucius, who served up a nice sampling of delicious nibbles to accompany the tasting.

You may remember Rehoboth Foodie Bob Yesbek wrote a paean to their calamari recently. I would also recommend the whole seas bass if you stop by for dinner.  

Eleven wines were presented. All were enjoyable. Of special interest were three Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs because they were shown and discussed by the winemaker, Michael Accurso. The Anderson Valley 2014 is an estate blend. These come in at 89-90 points, by all the likely suspects going back to 2009. Look for medium body, cherry, cranberry, raspberry and a bit of oak-driven spice.

Going upscale a notch, the Gowan Creek Vineyard 2013 gets 92 points McD, will improve, dark cherry purple, good legs, blackberry, plums, leather and barrel spice nose. These repeat on the palate. The finish shows floral notes, perhaps lavender and cinnamon, and a hint of dark chocolate.

Best for last, Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 10 Degrees 2013 is blended from the best barrels from the top vineyard blocks, 32 percent Split Rail, 32 percent Gowan Creek, 31 percent Confluence and 5 percent from the Narrows Vineyard. Aged 16 months in a variety of new French oak. Michael explained that the use of a variety of oaken barrels adds nuance to the spice, since oaks from different regions have different flavor and aroma profiles.

I was aware of this effect, but it was the first time I heard it discussed by any winemaker. Probably because I never asked. The 10 Degrees is very dark purple with dark berry-jammy nose, with rose petals, earth and barrel spice nuance. Palate took time. These need a few years in the cellar. Coaxing and swirling allowed fruit, some leather and roast beef to break through the toasted oak and tannin. Color, tannin and complexity tell me 93-94 points, and they are a fair value under $117.

As nice as these Pinots are, you won’t need to rush into buying them. For some reason there is little price appreciation with many of Duckhorn’s products, i.e., their top-of-the-line Napa Valley Red, The Discussion 2010 came on at $125, is now in its window, and is still around at $125. We also enjoyed the Sauvignon Blanc 2015. Should cost about $20 and gets a McD 89. WS said 90. Shows pale green-tinged, yellow-colored, fragrant tropical fruit, ginger, grapefruit nose. On the bright palate, lime, melon and Asian spice are supported by round Semillon mouthfeel and excellent acid/fruit balance. This went perfectly with the Chinese food.

As usual, many local wine shop and restaurant folk were in attendance. I truly enjoy their company and learning from their comments.