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Wines that don’t need aging are best for novice tasters

February 5, 2018

I hope all are in good health. The flu bug has ravaged our area. Unfortunately, according to the Centers for Disease Control, this year's vaccine is only effective for about a third of us. Their site claims the 10 percent number being bandied about was derived from results in Australia. Those who are interested can go here: www.cdc.gov/flu/about/season/flu-season-2017-2018.htm. No sense trusting the "fake news" found in other newspapers. Keep in mind when reading the CDC report that Australia's season precedes ours. Winter south of the equator is June to September. Makes a feller want to stay home and drink wine.

Last week I wrote that I rarely review wine rated under 87 points. Immediately I was refuted by a taste of $17 Cockburn's Special Reserve Port. It eked out an 85 rating by several writers. I agreed to review because I love port and figured 2 possible price points would boost it over the bar. People living in Calif., Conn. ($12.50), Mass., N.Y., N.J. and you know those high-tax states, can buy these under $15. This blend is NV. It spends 4-5 years in oak vats, is 20 percent alcohol, with blackberry pie and spice flavors. Try it with a crackling fire, chocolate cake or ganache, flan, berries with cream, or spice cake. Fact is, folks, I think this is a very solid 89 with 2 price points. Since Charles Symington got his hands on this recipe in 2007, he has made a decided improvement, and the raters are starting to award medals, including a couple of silvers and bronzes in 2015 and '16. Try one. I'll bet you lay in a case to save a few bucks. Big-buck buckaroos may note that Cockburn's 2011 Vintage Port, 95 points, $80 is their best effort since the 1955, $396, 93 points. These are a heck of a bargain and will cellar a long, long time, Joe. Look for violets and red fruit aromas, ripe plum and blackberry on the palate.

These are juicy. The finish is long, clean and spicy. I'm guessing in 10 years or so, speculators will get huge $ for well-kept bottles.

A while back, I favorably reviewed Zonin Prosecco DOC, which was selling around $13 rated 89 points. They have a very nice promotional 3-pack of Rosé, 187-ml bottles for $11, recommended for Valentine's Day. I enjoy their Prosecco Prestige 1821 for $16. Small step up in price, big jump in QPR. 1821 is pale straw-colored with an aromatic floral nose of wisteria and acacia. On the palate, look for green apple, lemon and grapefruit notes balanced by bright acidity through a long, clean finish. Won gold in 2016 at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, 91 plus 2 price points McD. Garden Gourmet had several wisterias on its property. I loved the aroma. Another terrific sparkler is the Pierre Legras Brut Rosé recently on sale at $30. This is very inexpensive for Rosé Champagne. I sampled some and rated it 92 points. Currants, licorice, smoky, herb and pencil shaving aromas with smooth, focused acidity and a pleasing mineral finish. I also sampled the 2006 Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Brut, 90 points, $58, tough to find, good QPR.

The Cuvee Speciale Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut was fine but not a great buy at $59. Pale-green-tinged gold with almonds, floral and grapefruit aromas, butter and slightly smoky palate with clean citrus finish. This was the first wine in a long time recommended to accompany asparagus. It worked!

I was asked the reason I have been writing of so many Italian sparklers, Portuguese, Spanish and South American wines recently. The answer is simple. Finding value in today's inflated markets means working far afield. All the normal suspects have increased their pricing to the breaking point. This is especially important to entry-level consumers. They are hard pressed to take a chance on a highly reviewed wine that costs over $100. Usually they are disappointed by the highly rated because they failed to read the drink-by notes, and they drink wine way before its time. These wines are often out of balance, tannic or closed out. Newbies will try them and think, "What's the fuss?" You may note that many of the wines from the less-renowned countries which I recommend are older. They are ready to drink; no cellaring needed.

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