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Both quality and price determine wine’s true worth

February 17, 2020

Brief reminder about an opportunity to meet Baroness Ariane de Rothschild and to sample kosher food and wine Monday, Feb. 17, at Chelsea Piers in New York City. A long weekend to cap off Valentine’s Day with NYC sightseeing would be an awesome treat. This is a great show, with 2,000 bottles of wine and spirits, and 35,000 plates of gourmet food; most writers name this as NYC’s premier kosher food and wine event. If past is predictive, I agree. Go to thekfwe.com for particulars. 

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2015, the most recent release, is being compared favorably to the 2013, which rated 91 McD at $30, current price around $47. I think the 2015 is a 93 at $35. Notes read medium-dark ruby, boysenberry, forest floor, anise nose, full body with appropriate acidity, iron hint and slightly elevated spicy tannic support. Needs a couple in your cellar. I expect these to escalate in price. This prompted a question from Marjorie, who asked, What does boysenberry taste like? The flavor profile is a more tangy cross between raspberries and blackberries. It bears little relationship to all but the absolute best marmalades and jams. Speri Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano Amarone Classico DOCG 2012 was sent to me for possible inclusion. I’m glad it was. Haven’t written of Amarone in two years, and the 2012 is a wonderful example. Fairly priced at $60, 93 McD and in its perfect window. Dark garnet, 15 percent ABV drives bouquet redolent of plum, violets, brandy, with hints of straw, nutmeg and licorice. Big on the palate with silky tannins and a crisp finish. Those looking for more affordable Italian that still rates well should check out Castello D’Albola Chianti Classico DOCG with some “liver and fava beans.”

Two from Francis Ford Coppola: Diamond Collection Black Pavilion Chardonnay 2017, made of Santa Barbara and Sonoma juice, 89 McD under $17. Complex for this price point, barrel buttery, some tropical fruit. Generally, the 2008 thru 2019 rate around 88 McD, good entry-level Chardonnay. Coppola’s Director’s Cut Alexander Valley Cab 2016 rates 88 McD around $20. Made with some Malbec and Cab Franc, it is also complex for its price, with blackberry, cherry, earth and barrel notes. On the palate, some chocolate and barrel toast show up. Slightly tannic, but color says cellar a few years or decant, pour and allow to stand in glass. Regulars are aware I don’t normally write about wines rating less than 87 points, unless they are great value. Killing a lot of birds with one stone, Cline Estate Grown Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2018 made the cut due to its QPR, under $14 when buying a case. Those who drink Chardonnay in this price range will enjoy the 2018. A large step up for the box wine drinkers, it rates 86 McD plus 2 price points. It appears the breeze through the Petaluma Gap saved the day for others in the Sonoma Coast Region as well.

Quick revisit on Coronavirus. China announced they are allocating $10.6 billion to combat the problem, indicating the problem is more severe than they were publishing. Please keep this in perspective. Recent CDC news says over 20 million in USA have flu and 12,000 have died so far this year. Perhaps people who would wear those HEPA filter masks might wish to buy some now while they are available. Recent reports claim the supply in China is depleted. The two-week window I suggested seems to show this is not growing as a pandemic would – yet. That said, many question whether China is being forthcoming. Keep in mind they have quarantined over 50 million people. Nevertheless, there is little downside to availing yourselves of the HEPA precautionary. Best case, the virus is contained and you use them to paint, leaf blow or portray Dr. Gregory House or Hawkeye this Halloween. People who invest may wish to be wary. The supply chain appears to be in danger. “Just in time inventory control” employed by most large manufacturers could show its ugly side.

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