I have always loved cheese. I enjoy the richness of cheddar in baked mac and cheese, the creaminess of brie and camembert, the signature sharpness of bleu and gorgonzola, the nutty hints in Swiss and Gruyere, and the salty notes in feta – just to name a few. All of these have one feature in common: They will melt when exposed to heat. I’ve recently discovered a cheese that doesn’t melt: halloumi.

This sheep’s milk cheese (sometimes made with a mixture of sheep and goat’s milk) originated in Cyprus, where it carries the significant Protected Designation of Origin/PDO label. This is a stamp of quality awarded by the European Union to protect the names of specific foods, drinks and agricultural products associated with a distinct region. 

For PDO products, all the raw materials must come from the specified area, all the production must take place there, and the product’s unique characteristics are a result of the local climate, ingredients and traditional methods. While some local families still employ the original time-consuming process of making halloumi, modern techniques have helped dairies streamline their production.

Considered a semi-firm, brined cheese, halloumi was an answer to the challenges of preserving milk without refrigeration during the steamy summer months in the Mediterranean island nation of Cyprus. Food historians believe Bedouins were the first to make this portable food. A centerpiece of the Cypriot diet since ancient times, it was first documented by a traveller from Italy in the 1500s.

Unlike most cheeses that are made with acid-producing bacteria or an acid added to ferment the milk, halloumi relies on rennet to coagulate the milk. The curds are pressed into shapes and then boiled in the leftover whey for up to an hour. This boiling step cooks the milk proteins and locks their structure into a rigid network. Before packaging, the cheese block is sprinkled with dried mint (which acts as a natural preservative) and stored in a salty brine.

The flavor and texture of halloumi will depend on whether it is eaten fresh from the package or after being grilled. Either way, it is quite salty and a bit tangy with a mild flavor. When fresh, it has an almost rubbery, squeaky texture. After cooking, it has a golden, crispy exterior and a warm, chewy center. Once cooked, it should be eaten immediately before becoming too hard to enjoy,

Halloumi has become more well-known recently in the United States, and packages can be found at specialty groceries and Middle Eastern markets. Recipes that feature halloumi often omit a crucial first step: soaking in water. This draws out the excess salt and slightly relaxes the protein matrix. The flavor will be less briny, and the soaking helps keep the interior plump and tender instead of dried out after heating.

There are any number of ways to serve halloumi, from the open-faced tomato halloumi toast seen in the photo to oven roasted alongside summer vegetables. Next time you make grilled kabobs, skewer cubed halloumi along with chunks of onion, peppers and cherry tomatoes. Combine pan-fried halloumi cubes with pasta, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil for a quick meal.

Grilled Halloumi

8 oz-block halloumi
2 T olive oil

Slice the halloumi into 1/2-inch-thick pieces. Place them in a bowl and cover with boiling water; soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Preheat a grill or grill pan to high heat. Remove slices from water and pat completely dry with a paper towel. Lightly rub both sides of each piece with olive oil and place slices on the hot grill or pan. Reduce heat to medium and cook until grill marks appear, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Use in watermelon salad (below) or layered on sliced tomato.

Watermelon & Halloumi Salad

8-oz block halloumi, grilled
3 C cubed watermelon
1 T olive oil
1 T Balsamic vinegar
1 T lime juice
2 T chopped mint

Arrange the watermelon pieces on a large platter. Break the grilled halloumi into bite-sized pieces and scatter over watermelon. Whisk together oil, vinegar and lime juice. Drizzle dressing over the platter. Scatter with mint. Yield: 6 servings.