Last week, my friend Laurie sent me a text asking if I wanted some fresh dill. Of course I said yes, and when we got together later she gave me a bundle of stems wrapped in wet paper towels. I shared some with my neighbors to accompany their smoked salmon breakfast, and the remainder is seen in the pitcher photo, waiting for me to buy some cucumbers to make chilled soup.

When I took the pitcher out of the refrigerator to start chopping the dill, I noticed an odd formation at the base of the stems. They had split open and started curling (see main photo). I remember a grammar school experiment we did with dandelions, cutting the stems straight across and placing them in cold water. As the cells on the inside begin to absorb water and swell, the cells on the outside don’t absorb as much and the curls form. I plan to keep this in mind for the next time I need a whimsical garnish.

As for the dill (sometimes called dill weed), there are two components to the plant. The thin, feathery green leaves are the aromatic herb we know as dill, and the flat, oval seeds are the pungent spice referred to as dill seed. Botanically named Anethum graveolens, dill belongs to the same family as parsley and celery. While native to the eastern Mediterranean and western Asia, its name comes from the old Norse word dylla, meaning to soothe or lull. 

Dill was mentioned as early as 3,000 BC in Egyptian medical texts, described as a “soothing medicine.” In first-century Rome, dill weed was considered a good luck symbol. Gladiators were given foods flavored with dill so the herb would grant them valor and courage. Many cultures cultivated dill for its ability to soothe an ailing stomach. Dill seeds were called “meetinghouse seeds” because they were chewed during long church services to keep members awake or children quiet.

The flavor of dill weed is light and somewhat grassy with hints of licorice, reminiscent of fennel, with which it is often confused. In recipes, fresh dill should be added at the end of cooking or used in cold dishes to preserve its bright flavor and color. Although its flavor does not persist when the herb is dried, you will still see it offered in supermarket spice aisles. In America, dill is associated with pickles; in the Nordic countries of Europe, it is associated with seafood.

Beyond its use as a pickling spice, dill weed has a natural affinity for zucchini, summer squash, asparagus and spinach. It complements cold-water fish such as herring and salmon. It adds an unmistakable taste to salad-herb blends such as Green Goddess. Dill often shows up in tzatziki sauce and other classic Greek dishes, as well as in recipes for borscht, the Russian beet soup.

Dill seeds are the spicier side of dill, with a robust, slightly citrusy taste comparable to caraway. They dry well and can be stored for several years. Freshly harvested seed heads are a picturesque addition to pickle jars. Besides dill pickles, the seeds make wonderful beet pickles and marinated cucumbers. In cooking, they can be crushed, ground or incorporated whole, as heat helps bring out their flavor.

You can find fresh dill at local farmers markets and speciality groceries, and in small clamshell containers in the produce aisle. I’ve included a recipe for chilled cucumber soup that features the bright taste of dill and one for baked salmon coated with crushed dill seed.

Cucumber Dill Soup

6 small cucumbers
1 1/2 C plain Greek yogurt
1/4 C fresh basil leaves
1/4 C olive oil
3 T lemon juice
2 T dill
1 garlic clove
3/4 t salt
1/2 t honey
white pepper, to taste

Slice cucumbers, reserving several slices for garnish. Roughly chop the dill, reserving a few small sprigs for garnish. Place all the ingredients except the pepper in a blender or the bowl of a food processor; blend until smooth. Chill for at least 4 hours. To serve, ladle into bowls and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with the reserved cucumber slices and dill sprigs. Sprinkle with pepper. Serve cold. Yield: 4 servings.

Salmon with Dill Seed

2 salmon fillets
1 T olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
1 T dill seeds
lemon quarters

Preheat oven to 400 F. Place the salmon filets in a rimmed baking dish, skin side down. Coat them with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lightly crush the dill seeds with a mortar and pestle. Toss evenly on the salmon. Bake until the salmon flakes easily, about 15 minutes. Serve with a squeeze of fresh lemon. Yield: 2 servings.