It’s here! Local corn on the cob has arrived at the markets in Lewes. Typically not seen until later in July, some summer crops have been ready for harvest slightly ahead of schedule this year. Delaware has seen a warmer, longer spring season, with soil heating up more quickly than average. This means warm-weather crops will be available sooner than expected.

Earlier this month, I tasted bicolor ears of of corn that came from Georgia and others from Florida, but they can’t compare to the fresh-off-the-farm sweet white corn I saw at Lloyd's Market earlier this week (see photo). These tender kernels are quite different from their multicolored and tougher-textured ancestors, the results of centuries of cross-breeding.

All types of corn known today have derived from teosinte, a group of wild grasses native to Mexico and Central America. Archaeological and genetic evidence supports the premise that domestication began around 9,000 years ago. The earlier plants had fewer branching stems and smaller ears with a lower number of kernels per ear. They also would shatter when mature to scatter the kernels (seeds).

Modern maize has much thicker cobs that do not shatter, which makes these cultivars easier to harvest, but also makes them reliant on human propagation. Another key difference between the ancient and more modern forms is that teosinte’s tiny ears had a hard fruitcase around the kernels, while the modern ones do not, making them more suitable for consumption.

Spanish explorers brought corn back to Europe after their voyages to the Americas in the 1500s. Prior to this time, the varietals developed by Indigenous peoples included white, yellow and multicolored kernels. Some regions of Europe welcomed the new food; for example, in the Veneto area of Italy, white corn became a staple and the basis for white polenta.

Between spontaneous mutations and careful breeding, sweet corn became a primary food crop. The first so-called “modern” commercial sweet corn varietal, Papoon, was documented in Pennsylvania and upstate New York in the late 1770s. According to food historians, this was given to the settlers by the Iroquois. As hybridization continues through the present day, farmers are producing corn with sweeter, larger kernels. That said, I prefer the dainty kernels of white corn.

Keep in mind there are two types of white corn: field corn and sweet corn. The ears I purchased (and devoured) were the sweet type from a local farm. Field corn is processed into chips, cornstarch, ethanol and livestock feed; it is often genetically modified to resist pests and herbicides. Corn is the only crop grown in all 50 of the United States because of its vast genetic variability.

Now that you have those first ears of corn on the cob for the summer season, what will you do with them? I simply snipped off the tassels and placed them in the microwave. About 3 minutes later, I was stripping the husk and rolling the ear in butter. 

Although some people prefer to remove the husk, I find it’s better to microwave the cob with the husk on, creating a natural steamer, locking in moisture so the kernels are sweeter and juicier. It also saves prep time and makes cleanup easier.

I’ve included a recipe for a summer corn salad that comes together quickly. This can be served on its own or over a bed of arugula. The other recipe captures the flavors of Mexican street corn and would pair well with a frosty margarita.

Summer Corn Salad

1/4 C finely chopped red onion
3 C fresh steamed corn
1 C halved cherry tomatoes
1/2 C crumbled feta
1/4 C thinly sliced basil
3 T olive oil
juice of 1 lime
salt & pepper, to taste

Combine everything except the seasoning in a serving bowl. Toss gently to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 6 servings.

Mexican Street Corn Salad

3 T olive oil
2 T lime juice
1 T honey
1/2 t chili powder 
1/2 t granulated garlic
1/2 t salt
1/4 t cumin
2 C fresh corn kernels
1/2 C cotija cheese
2 thin sliced scallions
1 seeded, diced jalapeño
1/2 C chopped cilantro

Whisk together olive oil, lime juice, honey, chili power, garlic, salt and cumin in a large bowl; set aside. Toast the corn kernels in a dry skillet until softened with hints of char.

Add to the bowl along with cheese; toss to combine. Garnish with scallions, jalapeño and cilantro. Yield: 4 servings.