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Stay thankful with just enough wine, not too much

November 24, 2017

I'm writing looking forward toward this weekend. In most years, Thanksgiving is a very happy confluence of Turkey Day, son Connor's birthday and our wedding anniversary. This happy circumstance adds impetus to our family festivities and provides ample reason to be thankful. I wish all of you a wonderful turkey sandwich, a slice of pie and some "hair of the dog" if needed from the aftermath of way too much food and just enough wine.

Recently, I favorably reviewed Zonin Prosecco Spumante Brut 1821. Castello D'Albola is made under the Casa Vinicola Zonin umbrella. It is the highest elevation in Chianti, Siena, and a gorgeous site. The castle was built in the 15th century, but the area was planted sometime pre-7th century. Another interesting note, the winemaker is Alessandro Gallo. I did a scosche of research but could not detect a relationship to Ernest and Julio. Anyhow, the Chianti Classico consistently rates in the solid 88-90 range and sells around $15. 2011 was the best recent vintage. The 2014 is ruby- to garnet-colored with some violet and strawberry aromas. Strawberries repeat on palate with some almond and cherry nuance.

Balanced with soft tannins and bright acidity. Finishes clean and long. Here is an excellent opportunity to evaluate your buds. Buy one each of 2013 Classico $15 and Classic Riserva $24. Try them side by side with your favorite person and a single plate of spaghetti and meatballs. This may be the best test of how you value Chianti.

Folks who enjoy Barolo may not be getting a "tax cut." Baroli have two major drawbacks for most. They are expensive and take significant cellar time. If you bought Cavallotto Bricco Boschi DOCG 2010 when recommended, at 95 points, it is in the drinking window now through 2039. The price has risen from $42 to $72. It will continue to rise. If you missed out, you have a second opportunity with the 2013. As usual, with critical favor on release, they surged to $71.

As the smoke cleared, these receded into $59-$61 range. I say 96 points. WA and WE agree. These are excellent for cellarers. Deep ruby with an orange rim, it opens to a very complex bouquet of Nebbiolo fruit, new leather, berries and oak-driven spices. On the structured palate, proper acidity and sufficient tannin indicate a longtimer. Look for cherry, anise, cranberry, pepper and more Nebbiolo. These are drinkable now for those who know about decanting and standing wine. However, patience will be rewarded. The long, silky finish and power of the wine were impressive. Same caveat on the Riserva. These are very lovely also, but they are selling in the $100+ range. The 94-point 2010 opened at $57 and leapt to $123 where it remains. Will be ready to start drinking in 2021. The 2013 Riserva is not released yet.

Casanova Di Neri makes world-class Brunello Di Montalcino. The problem is, everyone knows it.

The last vintage under 91 points was 1998, a paltry 90. This skein of highly rated bottlings causes the U.S. release price to often be over $200. The last time you could find a bargain was 2010, when many underestimated the vintage. Those came in at $84 and are currently selling for $200 if you can find any. The 2012 got rave reviews and just received Wine Spectator No. 4, top 100 honors. The price surged $20 and should go much higher. This is a perfect storm for smart buyers. The 2013 barrel tastings were less than stellar, around 93 points. I'm guessing these will come on relatively cheap. Di Neri is a bellwether producer. Those who enjoy Brunello should keep their eyes peeled.

In closing, a bit of humor and a query. Spelled scosche or scoosh, learned it meant to pull an unsuspecting person's trousers down.

When I was a kid this was considered humorous, even for the victim. Now it may be a jailable offense. It is definitely less difficult to accomplish with modern kids and plumbers. Also, does anyone else think it odd that, so far, no women have been netted in the abuse of power news? Nearly every psychologist emotes, "This is not about sex, it is about power." Since men and women are equal, it seems suspicious women are completely unscathed.

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