Wine-pairing dinner reveals surprising combinations

Last week we attended a wine-pairing dinner at Fish On in Lewes and discovered some surprising combinations. The chef worked with Teller Wines to match the menu items with correct flavor profiles for our glasses, and the results were quite successful.

Our first course was a warm mushroom salad that featured an array of roasted mushrooms, smoked feta cheese and crispy bacon, all tossed with baby kale in a shallot vinaigrette. The wine, a grenache-based blend, came from the Domaine de Bila-Haut winery on the Cotes du Roussillon, an area on the French Mediterranean coast near the Spanish border.

This reasonably priced white wine had fruity notes and lovely body that matched nicely with the tart kale salad and smooth feta cheese. Layers of rich mushroom flavors were enhanced by the mineral essence of the wine. A few people sitting at our table were delighted when the server offered them another pour.

The second course was my favorite of the evening: pan-seared scallops with white bean ragout. Technically, ragout (from the French for “stimulate the appetite”) is a catchall term for a thick meat stew. This version had no meat, but included fire-roasted tomatoes, smoked mussels and white beans in an herb-seasoned sauce.

As the chef described the dish, he used the term U-10 to tell us what type of scallops he was serving. The term refers to the largest scallops available, meaning there would be fewer than or “under 10” in a pound of scallops. Another term used to describe scallops is “diver.”

Diver scallops are harvested by hand, rather than by boats dragging chain nets across the ocean floor scooping up everything in their path. This is considered a more sustainable approach, since the larger, more mature scallops are collected, leaving behind the younger, smaller ones to maintain the population.

The scallops we enjoyed as our second course were perfectly seared: crisp outside and creamy inside. Their texture and flavor worked well with the white bean mixture, and the entire dish paired perfectly with a Riesling from the Snoqualmie Vineyard in Washington’s Columbia Valley.

Also well priced, this white wine included fruity notes of apple and pear with a hint of citrus. The combination of smoky heat in the scallops and mussels highlighted the subtle sweetness of the wine. Again, no one turned down a chance to enjoy another sip.

Preparation technique for the main course was designed to marry the flavors on the plate and in the glass. Roasted Cornish hens were served with grilled cornbread and a side dish of black-eyed peas with Swiss chard in a wine reduction.

We assumed the red wine used in the sauce was the same one we sampled as we ate the dish, a Pinot Noir from Sileni Estates in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. A lovely shade of red in the glass and soft on the palate, this wine was good company for the earthy cornbread and light poultry.

Dessert - layers of chocolate cake and cherry jam topped with whipped cream - was served with Cockburn Fine Tawny Port. Amber-colored with slightly nutty hints, the port (lighter than the more traditional Ruby Port) finished the evening on a delightful note.

I’ve included recipes for our version of the scallop dish, as seen in the photo. The key to success with pan-searing these beauties is to start with absolutely dry scallops, otherwise the moisture will cause them to steam instead of sear. Of course, you can always go to Fish On, where they’ve perfected the technique.

Pan Seared Scallops

1 lb U-10 scallops
1 T butter
1 T olive oil
salt & pepper

Check to see if the tough abductor muscle has been removed from the side of each scallop (some are sold with it already removed). Rinse them under cold water and pat completely dry with paper towels; set aside.

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high for about 2 minutes. Add the oil and butter, if using, and heat until almost ready to smoke.  Place scallops in the pan in a single layer; season with salt and pepper. Allow scallops to cook undisturbed for at least 3 minutes.

When browned and crisp, turn scallops with tongs and cook until the second side is well browned, about 4 minutes. Yield: 3 to 4 servings.

White Bean Ragout

1 15-oz can cannelloni beans
1 T olive oil
3 minced shallots
2 minced garlic cloves
1/2 pint halved grape tomatoes
2 T chicken broth
1 t Balsamic vinegar
1 t basil
1/2 t savory
salt & pepper, to taste

Drain and rinse beans; set aside. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium-low heat.

Add shallots and cook until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook an additional minute.

Stir in beans, tomatoes, broth and vinegar.

Cook until tomatoes have softened. about 5 minutes. Stir in seasonings, cover and remove from heat. Yield: 3 to 4 servings.