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Fine dining on the high seas!

Well, the Delaware Bay, but it was still fun.
October 24, 2016

Last week I was honored to be a part of the last Cape May-Lewes Ferry Sunset Wine-Lovers Cruise for the 2016 season. Few people around here know their wines like Outlet Liquors' Dave Hill knows his wines, and the combination of Dave and CMLF resident chef Ingrid Delatorre is hard to beat. And keep in mind that they are doing their pouring, cooking, chopping, plating and serving in a tiny kitchen that's rocking from side to side.

If I hadn't been on the cruise last year, I wouldn't have known what to expect. I associate the ferry with long rows of seats, a little snack bar, breathtaking views, a shortcut to Atlantic City, and nervous car alarms shrieking against the motion of the ship. 

Instead, the lucky few who managed to get tickets are directed forward (that's the pointy end) to a full dining room, decked out (pun intended) with a full bar and white tablecloths. Am I on a ferry, or on a cruise ship? Dave takes great pride in his selection of wines for each of the cruises, and in true sommelier fashion, he glides from table to table, topping off glasses and explaining why that vintage pairs with the course-of-the-moment. 
But it's still a ferry, right? Is the food imported from the little snack bar below decks? (Don't forget the ToastChee crackers....) Nope. Chef Ingrid's dinner could not have been farther from snack-bar fare. 

Her first course made that abundantly clear: A nicely smoked filet of trout nestled in a bed of pickled red cabbage, capers and cucumber relish. Dave's wine choice would need to stand up to a lot of bright, acidic tastes. The cherry and fruit of the 2015 Block Nine Pinot Noir was the perfect choice, tempering the pickled vegetables with just the right amount of sandalwood and clove. 

By this time, Lewes was rapidly disappearing aft (the rounded end with the propeller thingy) and the bay sparkled in the angle of the setting sun. A cool and fresh beet salad appeared at our table, sporting endive and radicchio topped with a bracing citrus vinaigrette. The gravity-defying log cabin-style construction was topped with a dollop of creamy chevre mousse. The tang of the chevre paired very well with the whisper of peach and grapefruit afforded by the 2014 Nortico Alvarinho from Portugal. 

As the Cape May terminal grew larger in the distance, Chef Ingrid presented a cute little quail, glazed with pomegranate and pear. The surprise was inside: Gorgonzola risotto! The stuffing was deliciously reminiscent of Thanksgiving, but perfectly smooth in texture. Dave's bottle hovered over our glasses, decanting the golden J. Moreau & Fils Chablis (2014) from France. 

As the ship made its way into the dock in Cape May, there was a short break so we could venture out onto the decks to watch the debarking/embarking process. But the aroma of the grilled chipotle pork chop accompanied by a polite ramekin of tomatillo chutney had us filing right back into the dining room. Whole baby carrots and a delicious potato gratin provided a tasty foil for the chipotle rub on the pork. Only certain California reds could stand nose to nose with this dish, and the Two Range Napa Valley Blend passed the test. I have to say that that was my favorite wine of the evening, presenting layers of black cherry, dark chocolate and raspberry as the wine lingered on the palate. 

Assistant Food and Retail Manager Jeanne Dodd Blakeslee kept everything ship shape and on schedule as tables were cleared in preparation for our return to Lewes. We all scampered outside to photograph the sunset (it never gets old, does it) and as darkness enveloped the ship, a celebratory flute of sparkling NV Tobin James Dream Weaver (again from California) set the stage for chocolate espresso bread pudding. A generous drizzle of caramel was the proverbial icing on the cake. 

If you've never tried the Sunset Wine-Lovers' Cruise, you should. It's a nice little break from the ordinary and the views are magnificent. Go to CMLF.com to book for next year.

  • So many restaurants, so little time! Food writer Bob Yesbek gives readers a sneak peek behind the scenes, exposing the inner workings of the local culinary industry, from the farm to the table and everything in between. He can be reached at Bob@RehobothFoodie.com.

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