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Off to a good start with gold-medal Chardonnays

July 1, 2019

How about a listing of Chardonnay gold medal winners? Let’s start with California’s J Vineyards NV Cuvee 20 Brut from Russian River Valley, blended of 51 percent Chard, 41 percent PN and 8 percent Pinot Meuniere. It has a lovely bouquet of seashells, lime and quince. Delightfully dry with a plentiful bead, it is ready to go or will keep for several years. Great QPR, 89 McD points under $25.

Napa Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016 is my type of 100 percent Chardonnay. Very complex – look for green apple, tropical fruit, a bit of smoke supported by mineral acidity and butter with a long, clean, dry, crème brulée finish. Decanter gave this a 96 but I think 92 points is more appropriate. It does get 2 price points though, as it can be found under $15 or $170/case. This product is owned by Italian producer Trinchero Family Estates.

Two 2016s from Newton: Los Carneros Chardonnay is 100 percent Chardonnay with a fruit nose accented with a hint of oak-driven vanilla. On the full-bodied, dry palate, peaches and warm bread are supported by bright acidity. This is the single-vintage label, $100 and 96 McD points, not the Skyside label, which is 87 points and $20. Their Unfiltered Chardonnay earned 91 McD and is favorably priced around $47, more to my liking. It has a floral nose, and resting on its lees has provided butterscotch, nutty custard, seashore notes and balancing minerally acidity. A very round mouthfeel and a long, reverberating finish.

Three Sticks Origin Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2016 was slightly alcoholic at 14.3 percent. However, the delightfully complex profile of apples, hazelnuts, and peach aromas plus the full, weighty body and balancing acidity carried the day for me; 91 points around $50. I would prefer you try to find the 2014. I have seen it on sale at $47. It is drinking perfectly now. Look for golden apple, pear and honey with hints of oak and nicely balanced acidity. Origin finishes cleanly with hints of brioche and nutmeg notes, 94 McD points. Four chardonnays! Can you believe it? 

Not many readers may be alert to Anakota Knights Valley Cab from Helena Dakota Vineyard. The 96-point 2013 just came on sale at $109, down from $160. You all know I am reluctant to push $100+ bottles. These, however, are exceptional value. It may take a bit of work by your local wine-selling pal. Hopefully you have taken my constant chiding that you find a seller who will work with you. Don’t forget this is indeed work, and therefore the price may be higher. I would pay up to $150. Still black-purple with plenty of everything to let you know it will cellar over 25 years. Particularly appealing to those who enjoy great vintages from Saint-Estephe in Bordeaux. A huge wine. Look for cassis, blackberry, dark earth, graphite, menthol and gravelly minerality typical to Knights Valley. On the back end, some espresso and chocolate. Won’t be ready until 2024. RP wrote 96 points, Galloni 93. I did see some of the 2010 for sale in Reston, Va., for $90. Opaque purple with creme de cassis, gravelly minerality and forest floor notes. Rich, full-bodied mouthfeel. The huge tannins are nearly incorporated. Made by Kendall-Jackson’s Bordelais winemaker Pierre Seillan. Ready now, better by 2021, will cellar through 2035. Big-buck buckaroos should buy a case of six each, or even better, three each of the 2009/$75, 2010/$80, 2012/$85 and 2013. All are rated mid-90s. Tanzer is on board at 94 points. That’s very high praise from a notoriously stingy awarder.

Since July 4 is midweek, I will end with my best wishes for a very enjoyable weekend and 4th. Please try to remember and pass along to your circle of friends and family that it is about a bunch more than fireworks and traffic jams. It took extreme bravery on the part of all. They had everything to lose, including their lives, to tell King George and GB, “Go to hell!” The Declaration of Independence did just that in an eloquent, descriptive language rarely seen before or since. I believe it was Benjamin Franklin who told the signers, “We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately.”

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