Guard wines against warm temps, light exposure, and sneaky teens
Wow! I’m in a state of wino eclectasy. This past week, thanks to Vintage Imports and the kind invitation of Paul Karp, I was invited to my third year of portfolio wine tasting. Many of Rehoboth’s top winos were there and, from the looks of the aftermath, all had a good “endoseason” time. The keynote speaker and presenter was Nik Weiss, one of whose wines I wrote up in last week’s column. He graciously provided an extensive list of his St. Urban-Hof Reislings: two Kabinett; two spatelesen, including a 2002; three auslesen including a 1997; and a beerenauslese 2010. All I can say is thanks, Nik. The man is an awesome raconteur and promoter of Riesling in general. But he is especially adept and informative concerning his fantastic wine. One take-away I wish to pass along - unlike most whites, Rieslings are as long-lived, or longer, as the best-made reds. When asked about cellaring he exclaimed, "I have had some over 75 years old and still lively and vibrant."
In addition to the special presentation, there was a tasting table in the main hall of St. Urban-Hof 2012s and '14s. You can’t go wrong with any of them. Try to find a 2010 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Reisling Kabinet for about $25. They are perfect right now, 92McD includes 2 price points. A better deal, at 94 McD points when priced under $32, is going upscale to their Spatlese 2013. These took "best of” at the Next Generation Germany wine trade show back in May. A very tough audience and little of the politicking and “gemutlichkeit” that goes on when you are a luncheon or dinner guest at the winery or manse.
Sampled a Docet Maremma Toscana Conti di San Bonifacio Gavorrano 2010. I was told by Mike Zygmonski that the wine was discovered for us by the late, great Matt Haley of SoDel Concepts and charity fame. Notes read: needs time but color, balance and tannin says it will be wonderful, fairly priced around $30.
Zachy’s fall auction went over $5 million. A case of Chateau Latour 2009 went for $17,150. These opened in November 2011 at $1,696/bottle. Corton Charlemagne 2009, $12,250/case opened at $2,250/bottle in November 2014, spiked to $2,322 in January 2015 and dropped to a low of $1,863 in July. I am harping on this again to remind all that you need to know a great deal to speculate successfully. The less informed will enjoy the hubris of drinking $2K bottles of wine. Had you followed my guesses you would have bought the 2010 Corton at $1,327 and be sitting on $2429. The 2010 Latour $1,433 went to $1,850. Those 100-point 2009 touts took gas. The folks to watch are Tanzer and Robinson when it comes to Bordeaux. Right now, big-buck buckaroos should be looking at the 2011 Latour, case of six, $4,450. Those who buy in my lane for special treats should be looking into Paulliac 2008 or '11. Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2008 will run you about $115-$120/bottle so you can buy three or four cases. LOL. It got 18/20 from Jancis, 93 from Tanzer and a terrific 94 due to 2 price points from McD. The wine is just entering its window and good through at least 2035. My notes from 2012: Still lovely, dark and deep, It opens to cassis, coffee, chocolate, cedar. On the palate, the 29 percent merlot and soft tannins come through to soften and round, while the balance provides support for wood spice, cassis, cocoa, herbal notes and typical tapenade cassis finish. Let them reside on their side until 2016-18 as they are closing for a nap. Those who enjoy Pichon will name this vintage the bargain of the decade. Most tsk-tskers in the whine trade will be very pleasantly surprised as they fill their early barrel promise. A quick revisit on 2009s.
These remind me of the beautiful 1982s. The problem is, they were so highly touted they came in far too expensive. DO NOT sell if you are a speculator. Once they wake up the market will embrace them again. Look to buy on a 10 percent to 15 percent price decline and guard against teenagers, light, and warm, humid temps.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
