LaVida breathes new life into a Rehoboth favorite
As general manager of Ta-boo restaurant in West Palm Beach, Kevin Reading survived his first trial by fire by confronting the bluster of a recalcitrant chef. Reading knew then and there that he had to be able to do every job in the place - including the chef’s, so in 1994 he enrolled in the Culinary Arts program at The Philadelphia Restaurant School.
His second trial by fire was a bit more literal, when in 2001 his very own Fox Point Grill in Wilmington was damaged by fire. It was time to bring his anything-but-conservative fare to the beach, where he made history by keeping his downtown Rehoboth brainchild, Espuma, open in the off season. Shortly thereafter, Kevin and pastry chef Andrew Hooven opened Sweet Dreams Bakery on Coastal Highway, garnering a flurry of awards and accolades. Hooven suffered a brain aneurysm (from which he totally recovered), but during the master baker’s convalescence, Kevin had to be in two places at once. Something had to give. So he wisely sold the downtown restaurant and opened Nage in the space where the bakery had been.
Reading settled on a young and enthusiastic chef, fresh out of school and sharpening his skills at The Buttery in Lewes and the Rehoboth Ale House. That chef was Hari Cameron. By 2007, Nage was earning awards and critical acclaim throughout the state. When partner Josh Grapski joined the team, the bistro’s concept was extended to Washington, D.C.
Reading moved on to Abbott’s Grill in Milford, eventually opening Abbott’s No. 2 on Broad Creek in Laurel. Bolstered by the loyalty and friendship of his executive chefs Ryan Cunningham and Paul Gallo, he is about to open a third venture in conjunction with Mispillion River Brewery’s Eric Williams. Brick Works Brewing & Eats will debut in a few weeks.
The former Sweet Dreams Bakery-turned-eatery was the launching pad for many local chefs and restaurants, not the least of whom are a(MUSE.) boss Hari Cameron and Chef Ted Deptula, who is presently the lead toque at Baywood Greens.
Seasoned restaurateur and Cornell graduate Josh Grapski’s LaVida Hospitality Group includes Nage, Lewes’ Crooked Hammock Brewery, the Big Chill Cantina and the Taco Reho Truck. Nage sports an all-star kitchen staff headed up by Executive Chef Sean Corea and über-pastry chefs Dru Tevis and Lizzie Kornheiser.
Grapski, Corea, Tevis, Kornheiser and the rest of the crew will be the first to tell you that Nage was waayyy overdue for a new look. The black walls and ceilings were yearning for light. And the little banquet room that appeared when Nage moved into the old Afishionado fish market space seemed like a good idea at the time, but sat empty as people stood three deep at the tiny bar adjacent to that room.
The success of next-door-neighbor Touch of Italy and newest neighbor Jimmy’s Grille (also opening in early June) suggested a décor and menu makeover along with an adjustment of price point. Over the last few months, Grapski spared no expense to brighten and tighten Nage. Along with a broadened small-plate sensibility has come a welcoming three-sided bar along with booths and attractive farm tables. A simple, uncluttered look now prevails, with attractively neutral wall decorations and even a bit of humor (look above the fireplace). The black walls, ceilings, tiny banquet room - and the old name - are gone. The new, more approachable and infinitely more informal Nage is now Fork + Flask at Nage.
The new dining room debuted this week, sporting a dessert bar, brightly painted walls and brand-new seating. The curved walls that flanked the kitchen are gone, replaced by an inviting chef’s table. Late-nite fare, Sunday brunch small plates and a line of mocktails round out the newly invigorated eatery.
In this business of eating, smart restaurateurs listen to their customers, observe the competition and sense the direction (and longevity) of trends. LaVida boss Josh Grapski has done just that, and the newly streamlined Fork + Flask at Nage is well-positioned to protect its rightful place as one of our top restaurants here in the Cape Region.
Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.
