Local asparagus is a tender treat

Good news - local asparagus is at the market. While growers in Mexico and Peru produce these lovely stalks almost year-round, nothing compares to the fresh flavor and texture of the harvest from our nearby farmers.

We’re familiar with the notion of eating local or farm to fork, and nothing makes the case more effectively than asparagus. The quality of freshly picked produce is superior to food that travels long distances before reaching your table, and asparagus provides a clear example of why that’s true.

Immediately after the spears are cut from the crown (the base portion of the plant from which the stalks grow) they begin to deposit fibrous cellulose compounds in their cell walls. You can readily see this if you examine a bundle of asparagus that’s been in the grocery case any length of time: the cut edge at the bottom of the stalks will appear whitish and woody instead of moist and green.

As you may know, the standard technique for trimming asparagus spears is to hold the top in one hand, the base in the other hand and bend it until it snaps. Kitchen lore asserts that where it breaks is just above the fibrous section, separating the tender top at the ideal location. Unfortunately, this is not always the case; you can force it to break depending upon where you hold it and how you apply pressure.

A better technique for ensuring you discard the chewy pulp and keep the delicate flesh topped by its compact bud is to select one stalk and cut it where the white base transitions to green. Then look at the cross section to make sure it’s moist and tight; if you see any dry spots or open pockets, trim it a bit more.

Assuming all of the spears in this batch are about the same width, you can now make quick work of trimming them. Line up the rest of the spears and cut them at about the same spot for pieces all the same length, using this first one as the guide.

Now, what’s the best way to cook these beauties? Slender stalks are perfect for dishes requiring little or no cooking, such as stir-fry or salad. Save the thicker spears for steaming or roasting, keeping in mind they don’t need much time in the heat to become mushy. Try to sort the stalks to make sure they are of comparable thickness so they cook evenly.

In addition to its unique flavor, asparagus has been held in high regard since ancient times for its healing and cleansing properties. Loaded with antioxidants, folic acid and valuable micronutrients, asparagus was prized over 2,500 years ago by the Greeks and Egyptians. First-century Romans froze asparagus to preserve it for future feasts, and Louis XIV cultivated asparagus in his greenhouse for a continuous supply.

Now that this storied vegetable is available locally, it’s time to add asparagus to the menu. I’ve included a recipe for the spring salad of asparagus and white beans in the photo, simple roasted asparagus and a crustless asparagus quiche. But, if your supply is fresh enough, you don’t need to cook it at all, just shave slivers into your favorite salad or toss the tips into an omelet. And a final bit of vegetable lore - ur ancestors considered asparagus an aphrodisiac.

Steamed Asparagus

1 lb fresh asparagus
salt, to taste
1/2 C water

Trim the woody ends from the spears. Place upright in an asparagus steamer or lay flat in a skillet. Sprinkle with salt and add water. Cover and steam until tender, about 2 or 3 minutes. Drain and plunge into an ice water bath to stop the cooking. Reserve the tips for the salad (below) or use chopped asparagus spears in omelets, quiches or risotto.

Spring Salad

1 C arugula leaves
1 C asparagus tips
1/4 C slivered red onion
1/2 C chopped tomato
1 C cannellini beans
2 T olive oil
1 T Balsamic vinegar
1/2 t chopped tarragon
1 T chopped parsley
salt & pepper, to taste

Arrange the arugula on a serving plate. Scatter the arugula with asparagus tips, onion, tomato and beans. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Drizzle dressing over salad. Yield: 4 servings.

Roasted Asparagus

2 lbs thick asparagus spears
2 t olive oil
salt & white pepper
1 t savory leaves

Preheat oven to 400 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment pepper or coat with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Trim the dried, woody ends from the asparagus and place in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle in olive oil; add salt, pepper and savory. Toss gently to coat the asparagus and spread the stalks on the prepared pan in a single layer. Cook until the stalks just begin to shrivel and brown, about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness. Serve as a side dish with a spritz of lemon juice or a grating of Parmesan cheese. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Crustless Asparagus Quiche

1 C chopped asparagus*
6 eggs
1 C half & half
1/2 t salt
1/4 t white pepper
1/2 C sharp cheddar cheese
2 T grated Parmesan

Preheat oven to 375 F. Coat the inside of a pie pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs until light and frothy. Whisk in half & half, salt and pepper; set aside. Scatter the chopped asparagus across the bottom of the prepared pan. Sprinkle with cheddar and parmesan cheese. Pour in egg mixture and bake until set, about 35 minutes. *Note: use thin spears that have been well trimmed of any woody stems.

Send questions, comments and recipe suggestions to capeflavors@comcast.net.