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WINE

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blancs stand out

September 7, 2015

I guess two of you contacted senators Carper or Coons to say no on the Iran deal. I thought possibly Uncle Tom might demur, since he was a Vietnam flight commander of a P3 Orion recon plane, 1968-73 era. “Hot time in the city.” On this issue, I hope my projections are wrong. With “peace in our times” guys like Tom Carper, Chris Coons and Joe Biden behind it, what could possibly go wrong? Folks, it is still not too late to try to change their minds. “Death to America, death to all Jews!!” We’re making a “deal” with those chanters led by Ruholla Khomeini. It was live on TV. All our lives matter! Break out those cellphones!

Several readers wrote to ask about Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012. Let’s kick it off by introducing Merry Edwards, one of the first women winemakers in California’s modern era. Merry is a graduate of UC Davis, MS, food science/enology. She had succeeded in establishing Matanzas Creek Winery when Barbara and I met her. We then learned that she was the scientist who developed UCD Clone 37 aka Merry Edwards Selection that is still an important sauvignon blanc clone in 2015. Merry is a very important figure in California for her grasp and instruction in clonal selection. Not only did she break down doors for women, along with other stalwarts like Zelma Long, but she also finally convinced the old-line skeptics, industry giants and growers of the significance of clonal selection to support terroir. In 2013, Merry was elected to the Culinary Institute Hall of Fame. She also received the James Beard Award, one of four women so honored. Now in her fifth decade as a winemaker, she and husband Ken Coopersmith are turning out some wonderful SB.

I truly appreciate Merry Edwards SBs because they are barrel fermented, 18 percent new French oak, and enjoy biweekly lees stirring, when so many have taken to the cheaper bulk cold fermentation in huge stainless tanks. I enjoy the body and barrel notes these processes add. The big business bulkers are trying the grapefruit, gooseberry, cat pee acidity profiles that turn off so many introductees to SB. You are safe with any vintage of Merry Edwards SB from 2006 through 2014. The 2013 will be easiest to locate. It's made with 53 percent Sauvignon Musque for its floral nose and 40 percent old vine (25-35) for body and round mouthfeel. The nose is quite complex. Jasmine and orange blossoms compete with lime and tropical fruit with barrel accents, a touch of cumin and minerality.

The rich palate shows clean, zesty acidity, white peach, pear and melon flavors. It finishes with a classical sweet grapefruit aftertaste. These wines can run into $33, expensive to some but worth at least a 93 from me. WS rated the 2012 highest of the past five vintages.

Merry Edwards also produces some darn nice PN and Chardonnay. For the adventurous, I recommend the Late Harvest SB 2012 packed with ripe fruit -nectarine, peach, mango and apricot, layers of crème brulée, poached pears, cardamom and honeycomb. Sweet on the entry, the palate is rich, expansive and superbly balanced, finishing with a hint of orange marmalade. The “wine press" was unkind, but I say at $50 or so they rate 89-90.

In response to those requesting info on the Duoro in Portugal, please go here for an enjoyable cursory look: www.wine-searcher.com/regions-portugal.

I just read an article in Fiscal Times by Eric Pianin and thought I’d pass it along to allow you time to plan. Go to http://finance.yahoo.com/news/millions-facing-hefty-increase-medicare-101500900.html. Sadly, the full impact of PPACA is still over the horizon.

I think the bill was so structured that when all the facts are known, it will have been in place so long there will be almost no path back to the private sector. The reprise should be a rehash of the rhetoric used to tell us of the impossibility of reforming SS, Cade and Care. Those who won’t act should be ridden out of town on “the third rail” of politics.  I’ll drink to that!!


Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.


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