Pomegranates deserve our praise

Whether the result of clever marketing or growing appreciation for its tart flavor, the pomegranate has earned a permanent place in the produce aisle. Most bottles of pomegranate juice, pomegranate tea and juice blends are sold under the POM Wonderful brand. The company has created a significant demand for its products, touting the health benefits of its antioxidants, phytonutrients and vitamin C.

Although these prepackaged products are much more convenient than extracting juice from a fresh pomegranate, nothing compares to the explosion of flavor when you bite into a mouthful of arils, the prized component of pomegranate. Inside the leathery skin of the dark red fruit are bitter, fibrous membranes holding hundreds of seeds in tight pockets of pulp. These arils are like miniature grapes: juicy flesh and tender skin surrounding a tiny seed.

The pomegranate’s ancient ancestor originally grew wild in the region that is now Iran. Over thousands of years, pomegranate trees spread into tropical climates across the Middle East, Mediterranean Europe, Asia, India, Africa and ultimately the Americas. Today, California and Arizona are the largest pomegranate producers in this country.

Well known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, mentioned in biblical texts and the writings of Homer, one of the most entertaining legends associated with the pomegranate is the story of why the seasons change from winter to summer. To begin the story, some explanation about eating pomegranate: in order to reach the pulp and juicy seeds, the skin and membranes need to be removed.

Once you swallow the juice, you have to decide whether to spit out the seeds or swallow them. Here is where we meet Demeter, the goddess of fruit and fertility. When her daughter Persephone was carried off to the underworld against her will, Demeter prevented earthly plants from bearing fruit, creating the original winter.

Meanwhile, Persephone vowed not to eat anything while held captive in the underworld, but ultimately she ate a pomegranate. She successfully spat out all the seeds except for six, which she accidentally swallowed. This led to a compromise: Demeter could have her daughter for six months of the year (spring and summer) and Persephone had to return to the underworld for the remaining six (fall and winter).

Cooking with pomegranate juice is easiest with bottled juice or a concentrated reduction known as pomegranate molasses, featured in many Persian dishes. Harvesting the seeds to scatter over a salad is best done in a large bowl of water: score the skin in quarters and hold the fruit under water to peel it away; break open the membranes and separate the pith from the seeds. The pith will float to the top to be skimmed away and the seeds can be covered by pouring the water through a strainer.

Another variation on bottled pomegranate juice is the alcoholic concoction known as PAMA liqueur. Its signature color comes from a mixture of vodka, tequila and pomegranate juice - a delightful addition to a Kir Royale (instead of cassis) or a pomegranate martini like the one in the photo. I’ve included the martini recipe, a variation on Brussels sprouts that uses PAMA instead of Balsamic vinegar and one for lamb kebobs that calls for pomegranate molasses. Here’s to winter!

Pomegranate Martini

1 oz vodka
1/2 oz Triple Sec
2 oz PAMA liqueur

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. Shake vigorously and strain into a sugar-rimmed martini glass. Yield: 1 serving.

Pomegranate Brussels Sprouts

4 oz slab bacon
4 sliced shallots
1 lb Brussels sprouts
1 T olive oil
1 T apple cider vinegar
3 T PAMA liqueur
salt & pepper, to taste

Cut the bacon into a fine dice, thinly slice the shallots and quarter the Brussels sprouts; set aside. Place bacon in a heavy skillet; cook over medium until crisp and lightly browned. Remove cooked bacon to a prep bowl with a slotted spoon; set aside. Add olive oil to the same pan and place over medium-low heat. Add sliced shallots and cook until softened, stirring to separate the rings. Add Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes. Pour in apple cider vinegar and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in PAMA, cover pan and reduce heat to low. Cook until sprouts are tender, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with bacon and serve. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Pomegranate Lamb Kebobs

1/3 C pomegranate molasses
1/4 C olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1 t salt
1/2 white pepper
2 pressed garlic cloves
1 1/2 lbs boneless lamb

Whisk together marinade ingredients in a medium bowl. Cut lamb into 1 1/2-inch cubes. Add lamb to bowl and toss to coat thoroughly. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 5 hours. Preheat grill (or broiler) to high. Thread lamb cubes on skewers and place on the grill (or in an oven-proof pan under the broiler). Turn often and baste with remaining marinade from time to time. Cook until nicely browned, about 15 minutes. Discard leftover marinade and serve kebobs on a bed of Basmati rice. Yield: 4 servings.