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Recipes from Bahamian cruise

March 30, 2018

We've just returned from a short cruise to the Bahamas where we had lovely weather but less-than-memorable meals. The highlights of dining on board were just three: a clubby-bistro-style steakhouse called Chops (excellent filet mignon), self-serve soft ice cream on the pool deck (except for the day the vanilla had hints of strawberry) and the amazing experience at the Chef's Table.

Before that meal, we were greeted in the main lounge by the wine steward, who brought us flutes of champagne. Dinner was served in an elegant private room with seating for 12. On this particular evening the only guests were another couple, and Jack and me. Chef Nesta introduced himself and shared his technique for managing a 5-course menu and wine pairing without falling over by the time dessert arrived.

In order to fully appreciate curated combinations of wine and food (and to stay sufficiently hydrated), at the start of each course we were advised to drink a generous amount of water, followed by a sip of wine and then a mouthful of food. The first course was a delicate scallop carpaccio adorned with shaved radish and micro greens, dressed with a tart yuzu vinaigrette. Yuzu, a citrus fruit popular in Asian cuisine for its floral notes, was an ideal companion for the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc.

The soup course was my favorite, not only for the flavors but also for the clever presentation. The server placed a bowl in front of each diner. Inside were a dollop of crème fraîche, garlic focaccia croutons, shaved Parmesan cheese and a spray of micro greens. Next, Chef Nesta returned to the dining room with a silver coffee pot, from which he poured smoked tomato soup over the garnishes (see photo). The acid, smoke and creaminess matched well with the French Chardonnay from Chateau d'Aussières.

For our salad, Chef combined generous chunks of steamed Maine lobster with hearts of palm, bits of pineapple and a drizzle of vanilla-infused dressing which added a lovely flavor layer. The wine, a crisp William Fèvre Chablis, underscored the freshness of the lush lobster and silky hearts of palm.

We were given a choice of fish (roasted branzino) or filet mignon for our entree. Although listed on the menu as a main course option, the house-made truffle tagliatelle was served as a side dish for everyone. The meat-eaters enjoyed the Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon pairing, while a Frescobaldi Remole Tuscan red was poured to accompany the fish and roasted vegetables.

Since we had assiduously followed the water-wine-food instructions for every course, all of us were still awake and alert for the decadent dessert. Each plate featured a Valrhona chocolate bar nestled alongside salted caramel dulce de leche gelato. By way of explanation, Valrhona is a French chocolatier known for their high-quality products. Dulce de leche (which translates to sweet milk) is a sweet, golden liquid made by slowly heating sweetened milk until it resembles caramel.

Chef used this mixture as an ingredient in the gelato and added a touch of salt to create a wonderful salty-sweet combination. The creamy gelato was the perfect foil to the rich chocolate martini served with dessert. Before we left the dining room, Chef Nesta invited us to join him on a tour of the ship's galley later in the week. And, he promised to share his recipe for smoked tomato soup.

The galley tour was full of surprises, from dishwashers the size of coat closets to huge ovens capable of cooking multiple foods simultaneously with instructions delivered on a thumb drive to a USB port. We watched a lump of dough become 3 dozen perfectly round dinner rolls ready for baking. Without any open flames, the kitchen is able to serve a wide range of foods to over 2,400 guests.

I've included a few recipes from our dining adventures. You can make vanilla vinaigrette by heating oil with a vanilla bean to infuse the flavor, or you can simply use vanilla extract, as I have here. It's a lovely choice for salads with fruit. For the smoked tomato soup, I had to restructure Chef's recipe, since we're not likely to cook 45 pounds of tomatoes for our family. If you're not a fan of liquid smoke, feel free to omit it; just be sure to try the plating-by-pouring technique to impress your guests.

Vanilla Vinaigrette

1/3 C olive oil
3 T white wine vinegar
1 t vanilla extract
1 t sugar
1/2 t salt
1/4 t pepper
1/4 t tarragon

Combine ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together until emulsified. Serve over baby lettuce garnished with fruit (orange sections or strawberries) and crumbled goat cheese.

Smoked Tomato Soup*

2 lbs plum tomatoes
2 minced garlic cloves
1 chopped onion
1 diced shallot
2 T olive oil
1 T Balsamic vinegar
1/4 t liquid smoke
1 bay leaf
10 sliced basil leaves
1/2 t black pepper
1 28-oz can San Marzano tomatoes
focaccia bread, cubed
4 oz creme fraiche
1/3 C shaved Parmesan
1/2 C micro greens

Chop the tomatoes into cubes and place in a large bowl. Mix in garlic, onion and shallots. Add olive oil, Balsamic vinegar, liquid smoke, bay leaf, basil and black pepper. Stir to thoroughly combine. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours. Transfer marinated tomato mixture onto a rimmed baking sheet and cook at 325 F for 45 minutes. Transfer roasted tomatoes to a large saucepan and add canned tomatoes, with juices. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup to a smooth consistency. Cover and keep warm over very low heat while preparing the serving bowls. In each bowl artfully arrange 4 or 5 cubes of focaccia, 1 T creme fraiche, 1 T shaved Parmesan, and a small bunch of micro greens. Season the soup to taste with sea salt. Transfer to an elegant coffee pot. For service at the table, pour soup into bowls from the coffee pot over the garnishes. Yield: 8 servings. *Adapted from Chef Nesta Bryon.

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