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WINE

Several tasty Sauvignon Blancs priced under $30

November 23, 2015

Mon Dieu! The recent Muslim extremist terror strikes in Paris were devastating. I have spent some time in that lovely city. Unlike some who find the Parisians aloof, I found them to be charming and open. Of course, I spent several years in Manhattan, so I find most other people to be warm and friendly. It is refreshing to see the Parisians' response to the Hebdo bombing and these recent incidents. Their refusal to be terrorized may be the best response to terrorists, whose aim is to create an environment of suspicion, fear and xenophobia. Going about your business may be the best remedy. The New Yorkers, to their credit, did so after the 9/11 attacks, and from all reports there was little targeting of Middle Eastern peoples. After watching several interviews with moderate Muslim clerics and political figures, I have hope there will finally be some loud, vehement denunciation of these radicalized murderers by their community.

The cooperation of these “good, peace loving, brotherly, Muslims” is the best avenue for rooting out the evil, destructive and murderous from their ranks. This might go a long way toward mollifying many who judge all Muslims by the acts of deranged terrorists. All that said, inviting the refugees into our country is problematic for me. Based on recent failures by our security agencies, the idea that they have an efficient vetting process for people who have been in transit for several years due to an uncivil war boggles the mind.

Since there is no appropriate transition, how about a review of Cloudy Bay SB Marlborough NZ, McD 91 at $24? Cloudy Bay is my consistent pick for a serviceable SB. Complements salad with herbs, Asian, Mexican and shellfish, especially oysters. Cloudy Bay aromatics and crisp finish are key.

The 2014 are all about gooseberry, citrus and passion fruit. The 2014 are No. 21 on the top 100 Wine Spectator list and the price may pop. I am not a buyer over $27. There are others that would be better value. Shannon Ridge High Elevation from Cali N. Coast priced under $20 and Dog Point from Marlborough under $21 are two. Again, it is about the aromatics and acidity with the Shannon showing guava, citrus and lemongrass while Dog Point is melon and lemon grass with pleasing mineral notes.

Again the fruit nose is balanced by the acidity. The finish is clean. Another old-name Marlborough, Kim Crawford 2014 may be the best buy at 89 points and findable well under $15.

Pale yellow-colored, it opens with pineapple, melon and citrus and is fruit sweet but balanced with elevated acidity. Finishes long and cleanly. Keep in mind that fruit sweet in this column denotes the appearance of sweetness driven by aromatics, not by residual sugar. These are bone dry. I also enjoyed the Crawford Small Parcel Spitfire SB 2013, 90 points at $25.

Nouveau Beaujolais, no thank you. Instead of ranting, I will refer all to an article in Wine Searcher titled Just say no to Nouveau. Like the writer, Megan Krigbaum, I am a big fan of the Grand Cru Bo-Julius with food. The article was written in 2007 but holds true today: www.foodandwine.com/articles/just-say-no-to-nouveau. Don’t be put off by Grand Cru; most of these can be found priced under $30 and some under $20 with 91-92-point ratings.

These cellar, unlike the Nouveau. Wine Experience has a recent list that includes all 10 of the Grand Cru Beaujolais producers with brief descriptions, ratings and prices. It runs to several pages and most were revised in 2014 or '15. Roger Voss is a reputable reviewer, although I don’t hold him in the same high regard as my big three, Jancis Robinson, Stephen Tanzer and Anthony Galloni.

You can go here to learn all about Grand Crus: http://buyingguide.winemag.com/regions/france/beaujolais?skip=8. Please read the entire paper, ads and all first. The holidays are coming and the staff needs the cash. Here’s wishing all a terrific, thankful, safe Thanksgiving. We are living in perilous times, and most of us have a great deal for which to be thankful.


Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.

 

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