Trust wine critics whose tastes agree with your own

My pal Paolo, whom I hadn’t heard from in a while, emailed me enquiring about Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2014, which noted WS critic James Suckling had written of recently, awarding 93 points. Paolo said it was on sale around $25, down from low $30s. Crognoli are nice little Super Tuscans, but the 2014 are overpriced at $25.

Careful shoppers would be better rewarded with the Suckling 95-point 2011 around $30. I rated the ‘14 at 89 points and the 2011 at 92 points. I prefer Monica Larner’s recommendations when it comes to Super Tuscans. She has a very good handle on Italian wine but is particularly adept at identifying greater value selections. She does not seem to have the “if it doesn’t cost over $40 it can’t earn more than 90-92 points” bias. All that said, I’m recommending Ornellaia Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2012, 91 points if you buy it under $31. A pretty, dark ruby-colored blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, it opens to black fruit, pie spice and garrigue-like aromas. On the palate, look for ripe blackberries, black currants, cloves, licorice and dried herbs supported by firm, fine-grained tannins and a proper acid structure. Finishes cleanly with the flavors repeating. Drink now to 2020. 

An alternative to Super Tuscans for those who enjoy an Italian antipasto, or charcuterie plates with cheeses, would be Citra Caroso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2010. These can be found around $20, a fair price for a 7-year-old silver medal winner at Concours Mondiale which spent two years on oak. These are deep ruby-colored.

They open to a mixed bouquet of tart cherry, mulberry, balsamic and barrel spice with hints of vanilla. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, red fruit, licorice and spice on the palate. Finishes cleanly with sufficient acidity to clean up the fatty characteristics of the food recommendations.  

La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca is a new varietal recommendation for you folks. These came to my attention initially when Jancis Robinson laid on a 17.5/20 for the 2013. In case you have forgotten, Ms. Robinson is a very tough marker and her 17.5, I have come to learn, is close to my 93 points. Her critique was instructive because the other critics were all over the lot, and some had had the temerity to write 83 points and less. Imagine the egg on their collective faces when the wine took three silvers in 2015 at Mondiale, IWC and International Wine and Spirits Competition. JR wrote the window is 2016-18, so have at them. Single vineyard, old vines, stainless fermentation and four months in French oak produced a lovely wine with an aromatic bouquet of toasted almonds, pear, anise and honey. On the concentrated palate look for salty minerality and a long finish. 

Here is a news flash! If you want to front run on two top-quality wines, try to buy 94-point Seghesio Zin Dry Creek Cortina 2014 under $36, or 93-point Regis Bouvier Clos du Roy Marsannay 2014, $33, immediately. They just appeared as “highly recommended” in the WS May edition.

I’m guessing at those prices both will jump off the shelves. The Concha y Toro Don Melchor 2014 I reviewed a few weeks ago came in at 96 points and $120 in WS. Expensive, but a real bargain. I’m guessing that wise, long-term thinking buyers who actually cellar wine for perfect drinking can easily find a case priced under $1,200. Compares very favorably to some of the “bad bargain” Cali Cabs that promote exclusivity by purposely reducing yields or artificially limiting production.

Although winemaker Enrique Tirado  is extremely selective in choosing the juice, Concha does not appear to be manipulating the price with those deplorable tactics. The ‘14 is far superior to the ‘13s, which were excellent. I rated Don Melchor 96 also. These made WS top 100 in: 1993, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005 and 2010, as I recall. Looks like this 2014 will make it No. 7.

Hope you had a joyous Easter.