You must be this tough to ride this ride
Only the strong survive, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the resort restaurant business. It’s not difficult to stay busy in the summer months. After all, many vacationers judge a restaurant solely on how far they have to walk to get there. But (most) local restaurant owners know that survival in the off season depends on garnering the locals’ loyalty. And it doesn’t take five stars or white tablecloths to do that. All it takes is consistently good food and service. That might sound simple, but the annual parade of “For Lease” signs suggests that it might not be as easy as it sounds.
So the shuffle continues, giving rise yet again to my annual year-end restaurant roundup. Fasten your seatbelts; it’s gonna be a bumpy ride:
America’s Pie in the ocean block surprised everyone with their unusual menu and varied selection of pizzas - boldly going where no man (or woman) had gone before: Right smack in the shadow of big boys Grotto, Nicola and Louie’s. A few weeks later, it happened yet again when longtime OC restaurateur Bill Gibbs opened Dough Roller. There is no shortage of pizza on The Avenue between the Boardwalk and First Street.
Thierry, Nathalie and Chloe Langer brought their Austrian-inspired Kaisy’s Delights to the ocean block. Think kicked-up pancakes in a cup, with tasty fruit toppings. Chef Nate Leonard and his wife Lisa took over the old Stoney Lonen to create the new 208 Social. Nate, who is as funny in person as he is talented in the kitchen, was a huge hit with EatingRehoboth.com food tourgoers this season. Though Planet X is now the site of The Avenue Hotel’s million-dollar expansion, the quirky restaurant’s chef, owner (and bass player) Justine Zegna created a variant of her Planet X concept in Berlin, Md. It’s called Blacksmith. It’s not that far away - give it a try and say hi to her for me. Roy and Laura Eckrote’s wildly popular Olive Orchard Tasting Room in First Street Station spawned the Olive Orchard Bistro adjacent thereto. Tasting room GM John Zingo runs the joint. Down the steps and to the east, the old Cultured Pearl building on Wilmington remains shuttered after hosting Tuscan Grill for a couple of years and Ambrosia for a couple of months. Sadly, the same applies to Donut Connection and Geyer’s Seafood. Yup, only the strong survive.
After a bit of family unpleasantness, Bramble & Brine reopened to busy nights and a classy, modern look. Congratulations to Joe Churchman and his loyal crew for picking up where B&B left off. Slightly east of there, SoDel Concepts renamed and reinvented Lupo Italian Kitchen in the Hotel Rehoboth with a New York chef, an overhauled menu and well-trained waitstaff and management. Bingo: It worked! We waited 15 minutes for a table last Tuesday night. In December. Who wooda thought!?
A move for Gelato Gal seemed like a good idea on paper, but the new multi-branded location never caught on. GG was smart, however, and had bought the building (across from Big Fish Grill). So Anderson’s Produce and chef/owner Kevin Anderson plan to do a farm market with lots of Sussex-centered goodies in there. Get ready to be wowed by the physical plant design at the old Finbar’s location! The Dogfish Head crew is upgrading that entire area as their entertainment/dining/brewing complex takes shape. James Beard Foundation twice-nominated chef (and 2013 Delaware restaurateur of the year) Hari Cameron loves his modernist cuisine at the one-of-a-kind a(MUSE.), but sometimes even he needs a hot mac & cheese in a carryout container. He and his brother Orion hit the jackpot with Grandpa(MAC) on Baltimore Avenue. Fill up ‘til you fall over for around 12 bucks. Rain or shine, there’s always a line. Only the strong survive.
Lisa DiFebo Osias and her husband Jeff dominated the Bethany dining scene for many years, and have resurrected the old Adriatico spot at First & Baltimore with DiFebo’s Rehoboth. The tried-and-true menu is user friendly, with the obligatory veal chop, familiar Italian fare and particularly delicious salads. Upstate pub experts Mike and Steve Lucey added much-needed windows to brighten up and reinvigorate the old Captain’s Table (where the short-lived Table & Taproom opened and closed). Don’t miss the respectful nod to the Lynch family by the front door.
Brenton Wallace brought a bit of his Zavino Pizza experience from Philly to his new Crust & Craft in Midway. The former Root Gourmet/Nage/Dogfish Head toque is working hard to exorcise the ghosts of pizzas past (Ledo’s, Pizza Palace and DiLeo’s North) with his wood-fired sourdough pies and creative sides. And then there’s the small city in Lewes we call Crooked Hammock Brewpub. With three huge bars, a glass-enclosed brewery and lots of seating both inside and out (plus a sandy playground for the kids), this well-designed operation is the result of a five-year process by La Vida Hospitality Group (Nage, Nage Pantry, Big Chill Surf Cantina and the Taco Reho Truck). Enjoy it now, gang, because in the summer it will be a mob scene. Gallery Espresso on Rehoboth Avenue had to make room for the remodel of First Street Station, and after a few years they reappeared on Route 9 in the new commercial building by Nassau Valley Vineyards. The demands that came with that unusually large space proved to be too much too quickly and we have yet another “For Lease” sign.
South of there, the very beachy Dewey Beer Company became the first brewer to grace Dewey Beach. The beers are good, and the brewpub fare is cleverly presented. It’s been a bumpy road, but Alex Pires’ third Jimmy’s Grille continues to plod toward completion next door to Touch of Italy and Outlet Liquors in Rehoboth. The menu - and prices - will mirror the mothership in Bridgeville. Speaking of motherships, the food truck culture has rolled to the beach. I suspect (actually, I know) that SoDel Concepts’ Big Thunder Roadside Kitchen, Billy Lucas’ Taco Reho, Zogg's Sea Hogg, Mike Clampitt’s Po’Boys Creolemobile, Warren Rosenfeld’s Jewish Deli on wheels and Vincent Man’s Italian Pavillion truck are just the beginning.
Longtime caterers Gary and Lorraine Papp hit the ground running with Palate in the Safeway shopping center. Early opening jitters have given way to smooth service and Gary’s consistently good cooking. Don’t be surprised if you see Back Porch Café über-chef Tim McNitt in there, lending a hand over the winter.
Back to Lewes. When Matt DiSabatino and Ian Crandall moved the tiny Half Full pizzeria a few doors down the street, Georgetown’s Queen of Carryout & Cookies Patty Gandy Jacobs filled that spot with her fresh and tasty sandwiches, wraps, salads and gourmet goodies. Around the corner, Kennett Square restaurant maven Meghan Lee has just opened Heirloom at the corner of Third & Savannah. The new spot is in a grand old house, not unlike the iconic Buttery just a few doors away. This isn’t Meghan’s first rodeo, and you can tell. Up Savannah Road a bit, Blue Plate Diner begat The Filling Station which begat Honey’s Farm Fresh. All that Lewes begatting aside, the owners are the former bosses at the old Finbar’s in Rehoboth.
Stay tuned for more. Pens are hovering over leases, and lawyers are kibitzing over new eateries for 2016. Let’s hope the owners/operators remember that only the strong survive. Beach eats ain’t no picnic.
Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.
