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THE BUSINESS OF EATING

Sun, surf, sand and south-of-the-border snacks

June 13, 2015

Some Foodie guy who writes a column every Thursday in the Beach Paper rambles on about hot sauce, and who gets the emails? I do! Am I destined to do all this character’s heavy lifting, or is it just me?

Anyway, not unlike that beachy chilihead, I also love spicy food. Of course, there’s hot stuff out there that isn’t necessarily Mexican, but I’ve only got so much real estate on this page, so Mexican’s what you’re going to get. And if my experience is any indication, I think you’re going to love it.

Yolanda Pineda at Mariachi on Wilmington Avenue dishes up a tasty combination of Mexican, Salvadorean and Spanish goodies. Check out her Sunday brunch (eggs Benedict with chorizo!). olanda welcomes everyone with her signature greeting: “Mi casa es su casa!” Mariachi alumnus Leo Cabrera features salads, tortas and burritos at his Modern Mixture in Rehoboth Beach, now with a brand-new bar! And Modern Mixture Too in Milton is doing a bang-up business with his tasty guacamole (spicy!), the Cuban press, the salad with nopalitos, and house-made tamales.

The alpha Tex-Mex in Rehoboth Beach is certainly Dos Locos Stonegrill. Their spicy-if-you-want-it-that-way lineup is popular with partying locals and vacationers alike, and I recommend the shredded chicken burrito and the humongous tacos. Joe and Darryl pour margaritas in three sizes (the largest should be called “ambulances standing by”). The bar is friendly, and the lunch specials are reasonable and generous.

(Very) loosely translated, “La Tonalteca” means “pretty much everywhere in Delaware.” And the Rehoboth La Tonalteca carries on the tradition of good chicken mole (a peanut/chili/chocolate sauce) and particularly tasty salsa. The place is a madhouse in-season, especially on weekends, so bring Wiffle bats and a piñata to keep the kids busy. But the reliable platters (especially anything with their white-meat chicken) rarely disappoint.

Gladys Fernandez’ Cilantro on Rehoboth Avenue serves up an appetizer called Taquitos Dorados. Think traditional taquitos, but on steroids. It’s loaded with all sorts of fresh goodies and is sure to please. Lewes’ Mexican mainstay is the tasty Agave, with multiple guacamole flavors and long waits. Plan your dinner early or late and you’ll walk right in - and might very well crawl right out, given the well-stocked tequila bar.

SoDel Concepts’ latest eatery is a reincarnation of Papa Grande’s in Fenwick. I remember touring that empty space with Matt Haley. The idea of a restaurant serving Latino street food was a longtime dream of his, and he dragged his intrepid crew throughout much of Mexico and South America amassing a menu they could duplicate. The place is so popular that he opened another one where the old Chez la Mer used to be on the corner of Second and Wilmington. Mexican Street Corn (especially good in Sussex corn season). Sloppy Joe Enchiladas. And those ridiculously good house margaritas with agave nectar and SoDel Concepts’ very own smoked chipotle sea salt. And it’s even better when enjoyed on the newly remodeled treehouse – up on the roof.

Most will deny that “light” and “Mexican food” belong in the same sentence, but self-proclaimed Greexican, Aquiles Demerutis, has accomplished that at El Dorado, about four seconds west of Coastal Highway on Route 24. His fish tacos are the standard against which others are measured, and the fixin’s bar is loaded with spicy sauces and salsas. The guy’s menu is a surfboard. What’s not to like?

So celebrate the summer with some hot salsa and a cold margarita. ¡Salud!