Bramble meets Brine - yet again - in the fourth block of The Avenue
It seemed that the wildly popular Bramble & Brine in downtown Rehoboth Beach might not survive the unfortunate conflict that can often shutter a family-owned restaurant for good. But reason - and the balm of passing time - eventually prevailed, and the little fine-dining mecca in the converted flower shop is now open for the 2016 season. And the tasty morsels coming out of the circa 1900 cottage at 315 Rehoboth Ave. are as good as ever.
The building, which was home to South Pacific Florist for over 26 years, has been completely redecorated. The clever bric-à-brac and rustic tchotchkes that adorned antique sideboards have been replaced by a modern, even austere, feel. The formal, high-backed dining chairs have given way to low-backed seats that impart a surprising sense of space to the small dining areas. On my first visit I actually thought they had enlarged the dining rooms. The white marble-topped bar, however, still beckons with Prohibition-era cocktails and updated classics, thanks to opening bartender Rob Bagley. And though you might have seen him whippin’ up cocktails at the new Chesapeake & Maine across the Avenue, he still makes cameo appearances at his alma mater. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat at the bar, you might get to visit with the talented and very funny Anna Short (of Lupo Italian Kitchen and Shorebreak Lodge fame).
Chef Joe Churchman brings an impressive curriculum vitae to Bramble & Brine. As if the huge success of the restaurant’s first incarnation were not enough, his Abruzzese-inspired culinary flair was sharpened at none other than Philadelphia’s Le Virtù. Over the years he has cooked at Eden, JAM Bistro, and even Justine Zegna’s Planet X and Venus on the Half Shell. Joe’s aptitude for fine dining is evident in his globally inspired menu, rich with handcrafted dishes that fuse both classic and modern techniques.
The modern slant is most evident with the addition of a prix fixe tasting menu. Patrons choose three courses from a “column A/column B" sort of arrangement with a couple of soups (I urge you to try the asparagus soup with tarragon, yogurt and vermouth!), a choice of appetizers including a salad, and either a fish or terrestrial entrée. From a business-of-eating point of view, that is an ambitious offering that can only be accomplished by a skilled and creative chef. For a reasonable upcharge, the bar will hand pick a wine to accompany each course.
Those who might be frightened by the concept of a tasting menu (and you know who you are) can take comfort in the fact that the regular menu remains. And on that regular menu is Chef Joe’s “salad.” I put quotes around it because the similarity ends with the name. Crispy winter greens are decorated with cheddar bread crumbs, an aggressive schmear of black garlic romesco and … wait for it … a warm and perfectly poached egg. Sprinkles of a bracing quince vinaigrette blend with the creamy yolk to make this dish one of the most amazing I’ve had in the fourth block of Rehoboth Avenue.
Even a quick glance at the lineup of house-made charcuterie (there are 14 choices, including cheeses) suggests that there’s a lot going on back in that kitchen, and is testimony to the adventurous nature of the chef/owner. Octopus terrine? Duck mortadella? Molasses-cured Delaware ham? No visit to Bramble & Brine is complete without trying at least of couple of these unusual bites. Chef Joey pays homage to the Abruzzo region of Italy with his porchetta de testa (bone up on your Italian to see what that is - it’s not as scary as it sounds). I’ve also enjoyed the duck mortadella, the rabbit sausage and the beet-cured salmon. The care and skill evident in these labor-intensive small plates certainly belie Joey’s youth – both in his appearance and in actual years.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: No duck is safe around Joey Churchman. Last week I enjoyed the sliced duck breast with celeriac (celery root), luscious maitakes (aka hen o’the woods) and crumbled (and crispy) duck skin. If you like rich and meaty, another don’t-miss is the pork ragout. A generous slather of whipped ricotta plays perfect counterpoint against this intensely savory preparation. It all rests politely in a nest of garganelli verdi. Thin-as-air chili threads add a bit of height - and drama - to the dish.
Joe Churchman’s Bramble & Brine is definitely off to a running (re)start. Though reservations are encouraged (302-227-7702), you can probably get a pre-season seat by just dropping in. You will be greeted in a very businesslike manner (some of that might come with a hug) by maître d’ Henry Dawson. His front-of-house skills are equal to the professionalism in that gleaming kitchen. You can even watch the controlled chaos back there through a huge picture window. Give the newly reimagined Bramble & Brine a try. Bon appétit!
Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.
