I knew Lewes was a famous port town, but real Port is all around, too

Did a little walkabout looking for Port in Lewes, on Route 1, in Rehoboth and in Bethany. The pickins’ were slim, with all those visited reporting the same sad story – shipping issues from overseas suppliers. Following are Ports which can be found in more than two stores in each location. Prices are approximate and vary a few cents in the six I visited. I did not locate any vintage Port, so shop via phone for availability. Keep in mind, arguably the six most advertised Port Quintas (estates) are produced by fifth-generation Symington Family. Of the 2019 vintage, two are released En Primeur (still in barrel futures), Quinta do Vesuvio and Dow’s Quinta Senhora Ribeira. The others – Warres Quinta da Cavadinha, Dow’s Quinta d Bonfim, Cockburn’s Quinta da Canais and Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos – are being cellar aged for future release. This link will allow you to learn all you will need: vintageportsite.com/campaign/2019-vintage-port.

Vintage Port must be declared by its producer following a very strict set of guidelines of top quality: austere in its youth, great depth of flavor and massive structure, ability to age and improve for more than 10 years into great Port. It then must be approved by an expert outside panel. Oddly, 2016, ‘17 and ‘18 have been terrific for Port. Many have been reviewed high 90s, with two 100-point reviews after being declared. Unfortunately, they will be starting to drink well after 2030. I normally choose Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto. They seem to be most careful with declaration, nominating about three selections each 10 years. Best of all, their price holds well. For example, we can purchase a ready-now 2000 vintage under $100. The top 2019 are selling north of $115. Recognizing $100 ain’t hay, a 95-point McD and everyone else, 21-year-old, properly aged, terrific wine is great value. In 2005, I typed, “variegated bouquet of cassis, graphite, licorice, damp earth and a hint of raisin; on the palate black fruit, chewy tannins with hints of salinity. A long, dusty finish shows barrel spices. A recent review in WS awarded a 95.” Bidenized, Fresh, sleek, with cassis, cherry paste and Linzer torte flavors with red licorice, alder and briar notes. The finish shows anise and spice. 

The following can be found locally. The first listing in each category would be my choice. Quinta Noval Fine Ruby Port 87 McD, $17. Chocolate aromas with herbs, smooth fruity palate great for first-timers. Dow’s Ruby Port, 86 McD, $16.10 YO Tawny: Fonseca, 90, $25, caramel, red fruits supported by bright acidity. Taylor Fladgate, 92 McD, $30; Graham’s, 93, $32. 20 YO Tawnies Fonseca, 92 McD, $60, fruitcake aromas with hints of dried rose petals, mulled wine, fudge and walnut flavors, very long, balanced finish with coffee, cocoa and enough acidity to keep it clean; Quinta do Noval, 91, $90; Taylor Fladgate, 92, $60. I found a Barao de Vilar Maynard’s 40-year-old for $75. Buying at this price felt like stealing. It has won gold everywhere, 94 McD, an aperitif or digestif. Great with chocolate, cheeses, cream-based or fruit desserts that aren’t too sweet. It goes very well with dry fruit and nuts, nut cakes and Swiss rolls. Medium tawny-colored with tangerine, walnut and mocha aromas, walnuts and earthy spices. Should be served at cellar temperature, 55 degrees F or 13 C. Late Bottled Vintage Port: Dow’s, 91 McD, $24; Cockburns, 88, $25; I have not sampled either. Last but not least, I found some Sandeman Apitiv Reserve White Port NV for $20, 88 McD. This is a rare find in small markets. I saw several in Lewes on Savannah Road. Golden-yellow color from seven years in oak casks. Nuts, floral, dried fruit (Fig Newton) and orange zest aromas; well-balanced acidity and sweetness. Dried fruit and tropical fruit flavors to open, going to stone fruit through its finish. Point of information, Port allows winemakers a bunch of control. Very ripe grapes are macerated and fermented. At the point chef decides, a 77% ABV neutral grape spirit is added to stop fermentation. Much quicker than cooling. This also fortifies the wine to about 20%. Most of these then spend four to nine years in barrels and bottles. I find it remarkable this much work and time can be had for such low prices.