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Rosé sparklers are perfect for festive holiday apéritifs

December 25, 2021

Merry Christmas to all! Under current conditions, that was tough to type until I considered the reasons for the season. Regardless of our belief system, the underlying ideas of peace, love and brotherhood can be shared. Turn off the news, dwell on those thoughts, and hopefully your demeanor and psyche may be lifted to buoy you and those you hold dear through the holiday. 

Let’s start with two Syrahs. Both go well with traditional hearty meat entrees served this time of year. Santa Barbara’s Tensley has been rolling out wonderful Syrah for about two decades. The last time I recorded a review of the $100 Colson Canyon Noir under 92 points was the 91 McD in 2016. In 2015 it was 95 McD; ‘17 and ‘18 were both 94. Tensley produces several levels: Tensley Syrah, 91 McD, $25; Colson Canyon Vineyard, 93, $45 (this is not the Noir); Turner Vineyard, 94. $46; OGT Syrah, 93, $58; BMT Syrah, 93, $61. My fav is the Turner, but it is nearly impossible to get. Normally, I would now advise, “read label carefully.” With Tensley’s Syrah, with the exception of the “Lite,” you can’t go wrong. These folks also produce 88-89-point Pinot Noir, Cab, red blends and whites labeled Joey Tensley Fundamental under $20. Today’s selection is Colson Canyon Vineyard 2019, under $40, 93 McD, new release. Floral bouquet, mostly violets, raspberry with smoky meat highlights, loads of fruit on the full-bodied palate with some barrel notes and a pleasing chocolate finish. Drinking well now but will cellar at least 15 years.

Another from Santa Barbara, Ex Post Facto 2017 or ‘18 from longtime star Greg Brewer, if found under $36, gets 91 McD. My third selection, Alain Voges Les Vieilles Vignes Cornas is a bellwether Syrah from the Northern Cotes du Rhone. The 2015, 95 McD, $102, and the ‘16, 94 points, $95 were the best recent vintages. The 2019 rated 88 can be had around $70 and needs at least four years in cellar. Pay up! We can do better with a little shopping for “the old stuff” Steve Martin didn’t want. The 2015 is drinking beautifully now. Boysenberry, blackberry, incense, violets, broiled meat and stony mineral bouquet, more fruit on the palate with licorice and earthen notes. The tannins are involving now but tell us, “I can sit another 10 years.” The balance is appearing to hit expectation. Normally I would advise friends to lay some in, but there is little price appreciation. The 2015 entered in 2017 at $80 and currently can be found at $91.

Larry asked about the Robert Mondavi Maestro 2017. An OK wine, 87 McD in the $30s. Considering 2017 is most famous for excessive flooding and horrible fires, I must admit I haven’t spent much time with the 2017 Napa “Bordeaux blends.” Robert Mondavi was brilliant in many areas, especially as a deal maker, with marketing and his very early espousal of cold stainless fermentation, in California, but Zelma Long was the winemaker of note for Mondavi in the halcyon years of the ‘70s. Robert’s brother Peter stewarded the family’s main holding, Charles Krug, for 50 years after his brother sued him for his share and was awarded the Napa site. Krug is still family owned. Peter was regarded more highly as a winemaker by most cognoscenti. 

Let’s wrap up with two sparklers. Try to find Valdo Cuvee 1926 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, DOCG, NV, 90 McD, around $20; I’ve seen at Calvert Woodley in D.C. for $15. It is a bright, extra-dry (less dry than brut) sparkler with lovely perlage, complex nose with apple, banana, peach and pineapple. Balanced with enough acidity to clean up the long finish. Great value here. Makes a great Bellini. Regulars know I think rosé sparklers add a festive note to pre-prandial quaffing. Brilla Prosecco Rosé DOC NV, 88 McD, can be had for less than $125/case of 12. Pale, pink-tinged peach with tiny bubbles, it sparkles in your glass. Strawberry, peach and citrus aromas continue into creamy peach and strawberry flavors supported by bright acidity to clean up the palate. The case buy is stealing without the smash and grab. Best to all for a lovely weekend, and blessings to you and yours.

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