Select subcommittee submits substantial sub strategies

August 19, 2021

Just minutes ago, the International Commission for Cheesesteak Oversight, aka ICCO, released new guidelines governing the hallowed cheesesteak. At this very moment, opponents and allies alike are picketing the opulent skyscraper offices in Flekkefjord, Norway, brandishing signs like “Hands Off My Buns!” and “I’ll Whiz If It I Want To!” Even the PGA has been dragged into the controversy as munching protestors ponder the age-old question: To chip or to slice? And the controversy rages on. See the live Steak-Cam at GiveMeExtraPickles&HotPeppersOrI’

Let’s get the bun thing straightened out right now: The soft, elongated roll, similar to those cranked out at Philly’s Amoroso Baking Company is, for some, the preferred vehicle for the meaty treasure that rests within. You’ll find nice buns at Casapulla’s Subs (formerly Casapulla’s South) in Lighthouse Plaza near Rehoboth and also at Capriotti’s Sandwich Shop across from the Villages of Five Points in Lewes. Both of these Wilmington-born submongers make a good cheesesteak, and the tiny differences vary with the alignment of the planets – and who’s running the grill. At Capriotti’s, the largest will feed the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Though Casapulla’s Italian sub is quite possibly the best at the beach (another column), their cheesesteaks are great with a bit of mayo, tomato, lettuce, pickles and hot pepper spread. Both are fully packed and reliably scrumptious – not unlike the Rehoboth Foodie, in fact.

Cheesesteaks are the sleeper at Gus & Gus’ Place on the Rehoboth Boardwalk. Like the Dog House version in New Castle, it’s stuffed to bursting with chipped beef frizzled with caramelized onions. It couldn’t be any fresher if it had been made right in front of you (which it is). A block north and about 75 feet west, the Gouvas brothers at Louie’s build grinders. Don’t panic: The New England term refers to the fact that the sandwich is crisped under a broiler. Exhaustive (and rather fattening) studies have shown that both Gus’ and Louie’s creations easily survive the trip down to your blanket and umbrella.

Don’t forget Pete’s Steak Shop in the Marketplace shopping center near Weis. Their slightly firmer rolls are quite good, and the controversial “Whiz” - the bright-orange, slippery Philly must-have – is available if you ask. Order a large from boss Petru Cornescu and you won’t be hungry again until October.

There are four ‘steak spots virtually across the street from one another in Dewey Beach: The lunchtime offering from the unassuming yet always busy Sunrise restaurant; the happily overstuffed, nicely spiced and well-done cheesesteak from The Starboard; the overflowing ‘steak from Fat Vinny’s; and the less beefy yet surprisingly delicious turkey cheesesteak from Gary’s Dewey Beach Grill. I’ve worn a trough across Coastal Highway, waddling back and forth in my never-ending quest to decide which one’s the best. I do it all for you.

I do have to shout out to one exceptional cheesesteak that dwells in the southern hinterlands (well, Ocean City): Check out Buxy’s Salty Dog Saloon and Drydock 28, tandem restaurants on the bayside at 28th Street. They share the same ownership and the same kitchen, and the cheesesteak is presented piping-hot and properly chopped with grilled onions and peppers. It is very, very good. 

I’ve used up my allotted ink for this week, but the ICCO (I hope you know that I made all that up) urges you to embark on your own research to explore this beachy and delectable SUB-ject. 

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