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Take a look at outstanding wines from both coasts

March 6, 2021

How about a Stags’ Leap Winery duo to lead this week? I sampled their new release Napa Viognier 2019, 89 McD around $30. It is likely the 2018 is still on your shelves, so I will review it also, 90 McD, under $30. Stags’ Leap has a run of 89-90-point Viognier since the 88-point 2013. The 2018 is creamy with a bright acidity and mineral frame. Opens to peach, apricot, citrus and pie spice nose. Finishes long and clean, with pie spice repeat. The 2019 is more floral with lemon, lime and honeysuckle aromas. On the crisp palate are peach, lychee and citrus flavors undergirded with flint/mineral notes. Complex finish repeats floral bouquet. Their 2019 Napa Sauvignon Blanc, 91 McD around $32, is their second production run of SB. Fortunately, the grapes were in production before the fires struck Napa. Those who prefer complex, mineral-driven, European-style SB will be delighted. Mixed floral bouquet features citrus, jasmine and lemongrass. On the round palate, look for grapefruit, lemon and nectarine with a mild ginger subtone. Finishes long and clean with mineral aftertaste that reminds of the best flinty Mosel. I feel a bit odd writing that, because Mosel is mostly derived of Riesling, but it is what it is.

Our neighbor Virginia offers a diverse menu of grapes from the road less traveled. Let’s look at some today. Did you know Norton is USA’s oldest wine grape and is native to Virginia? Chrysalis Vineyards has the largest planting of this varietal wine and produces several well-regarded labels. Frootbat.com near Heritage Antique Market in Lewes has some of the Estate Bottled available, 89 McD around $25. Another varietal wine few are aware of is Tannat, and Stinson Vineyards Crozet, Monticello AVA, delivers a McD 88 Tannat around $36. Look for blackberry, cherry and plums with earthy forest floor, tobacco and oak-driven spices. I also enjoyed another little-known varietal wine, Petit Manseng from Stinson. It is late-harvest style with honey, nectarine and fresh bread dough aromas, and a sweet 10.7 percent residual sugar flavor supported by appropriate 3.32 pH acidity. Aged 8 months sur lie in neutral French barrels, $26, McD 87.

Can’t talk about Virginia wine and not mention 868 Vineyards Vidal Blanc Passito 2017 from Purcellville, Va., which took top honors at Virginia Governors Cup in 2020.  This was the first time in 15 years a dessert wine was awarded the top prize. I reviewed these previously, right after they won the award. If you bought any, they are now in their window and will improve a few more years. You may remember that Passito is the Italian process where the grapes are dried on mats or racks, then pressed, and the small amounts of concentrated juice are vinified and barrel aged. Affordable alternatives are 88 McD, $32/750 ml Barboursville Vineyards Passito, made of Muscat Ottonel and Vidal Blanc; and 90 McD, $32/750ml, The Prisoner Blindfold White. Look for poached pear, honeydew, butter, caramel and vanilla. Both are fine value. As RRs know, most of these dessert wines are packed in 500 ml bottles and are in the $30-$50 range. 

Props to Cape, Milford and Central wrestlers for a successful opening round in the state tournament. Watching the event on the internet is enjoyable, but it certainly is diminished by the lack of fan participation. I sympathize with all the senior athletes and their families who worked so long and hard that their day in the sun is diminished by lack of a roaring crowd. From my perspective there were a several upsides. On-demand choice of matches while lounging in a comfortable seat with volume control and glass in hand beats the heck out of bleachers, shrilling whistles, pop-up fans when the action gets hot, and a cold bottled water or undiluted soft drink come to mind.

Still awaiting my first-shot notification. Nearly all my senior friends who are progressives and independents are on their second shot, and only a few of those who are conservatives have their first. I’m curious how many readers have observed a similar circumstance in their circle of pals. Maybe I should lighten up on criticizing the guv and his acolytes.

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