Don’t overlook leeks

Since leeks are considered cool-season vegetables, we were surprised to see bunches of freshly harvested leeks at the Historic Lewes Farmers Market. As you may know, leeks are in the onion family along with garlic and shallots. Similar to those bulb-shaped cousins, wild leeks had a distinct subdivided bulb below their tall green leaves.

The current Middle Eastern style of leek retains that original shape, while European-style cultivated leeks have a straight white base below a long cylinder of tight green leaf sheaths. This is accomplished through a farming process called “earthing up,” which compresses the base and keeps it below the surface where it remains white.

Leeks found in this country, whether at the supermarket or the farmers market, are grown in this fashion, which contributes to the messy job of cleaning leeks. Begin by removing the root ends, and the thick, dark-green leaves which are too tough to eat even when cooked, although good to flavor stock.

Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and rinse each half under cold water, fanning out the layered leaves to dislodge any grit trapped between. Now you are ready to make one of the most delicious summer soups: vichyssoise. Technically a variation on the French classic, Potage Parmentier (potato leek soup) the origins of this chilled soup may not be European.

In Julia Child’s book, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” she describes vichyssoise as “an American invention.” On the other hand, some food historians insist it is definitely French, based on a recipe found in the 1869 cookbook “Le Livre de Cuisine.” And, according to a 1950s interview in New Yorker Magazine, both sides may be correct.

 Louis Diat, chef at New York City’s Ritz Carlton, recounted, “In the summer of 1917, when I had been at the Ritz seven years, I reflected upon the potato and leek soup of my childhood which my mother and grandmother used to make. I recalled how during the summer my older brother and I used to cool it off by pouring in cold milk and how delicious it was.”

His invention (or re-introduction) of the soup for the menu at the Ritz Carlton included his naming the dish after the city of Vichy. Famous for its thermal baths dating from Roman times, this elegant spa town was not far from his boyhood home. Combining peasant beginnings with a reputation for luxury, he elevated cold potato soup to vichyssoise.

I’ve include my recipe for this summer favorite, using a combination of whole milk and heavy cream to moderate the calories somewhat. It’s imperative to purée the mixture completely to make sure the texture is silky smooth and without any potato crumbs.

The next recipes are good for breakfast or brunch. One features leeks, white beans and pancetta; the other is a quiche which can be served warm or at room temperature. Or, you can substitute leeks for onions in your next sauté mixture to appreciate their lovely, subtle flavor.

Vichyssoise

2 russet potatoes
3 leeks
3 T butter
3 C chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 C whole milk
1 C heavy cream
1 t salt
1/4 t white pepper
snipped chives (for garnish)

Peel and thinly slice the potatoes; set aside. Clean carefully and remove the green tops from the leeks; finely chop the white bulbs. Melt butter in a large saucepan over very low heat. Add sliced potatoes and chopped leeks; cook until softened but not browned. Add the chicken stock and bay leaf; bring to a simmer and cook until vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. Purée the soup with an immersion blender and pass through a fine sieve or food mill. When close to room temperature, whisk in milk and cream. Chill, covered with plastic wrap until ready to serve. Season with salt and white pepper, and serve in chilled soup cups or martini glasses garnished with snipped chives. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Leek & White Bean Hash

2 leeks
3/4 C chopped pancetta
15-oz can cannellini beans

Clean the leeks and discard the tough, dark-green tops. Slice the white and light-green sections; set aside. Place pancetta in a skillet over medium heat and cook until browned. Remove the meat to a paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon, leaving the drippings in the pan. Reduce heat to low and add leeks to the skillet; sauté until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the beans; add to the skillet along with the cooked pancetta. Cook until heated through, stirring to combine thoroughly. Serve with fried eggs or over baby arugula. Yield: 2 to 3 servings.

Leek Quiche

1 9-inch pie crust
1 t olive oil
1 t butter
1 leek
4 oz mushrooms
4 oz cherry tomatoes
2 T chopped parsley
salt & pepper, to taste
1 C shredded cheddar cheese
4 large eggs
3/4 C milk

Preheat oven to 375 F. Spread pie crust in pie pan, flute edges and poke holes with a fork. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Decrease oven temperature to 350 F. Clean leek, discard tough green tops and thinly slice; set aside. Chop the mushrooms; set aside. Heat olive oil and butter in a skillet over medium. Stir in leeks and mushrooms; cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Halve cherry tomatoes and toss in the skillet; add parsley, salt, pepper and cheese. Stir to combine and spread the mixture evenly across the bottom of the cooked pie crust. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs and milk. Pour evenly over the vegetable mixture in the pie plate. Bake until puffy and browned, about 50 minutes. Allow to cool about 15 minutes before slicing. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.