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It’s almost that day - break out the bubbly for your bae

January 29, 2022

Is anyone else concerned about the paucity of articles on the Don region and Formosa? Today it is all about NFL and the stock market until page 34 in major news organs. As French poet Paul Claudel said, “Gentlemen, in the little moment that remains to us between the crisis and the catastrophe, we may as well drink a glass of champagne.” Sir Winston Churchill: “I could not live without champagne. In victory I deserve it; in defeat I need it.” Winnie was claimed to have Bidenized from the “Little General,” but no quotes were found. Well, I need it! Sorry to admit, I failed to inform you about Burns Night Jan. 25. Sir Robert preferred Scotch whiskey with his haggis. Minced heart, liver and lungs are bulked out with oatmeal, onions, suet, seasoning and spices before cooking in a sheep’s stomach. Some of today’s producers employ synthetic casings. Whether sheep or DuPont, I usually drink the scotch, and consume the “neeps and tatties” while pushing the haggis around the plate. That written, those who enjoy the original scrapple recipes may find haggis appetizing. The modern versions of scrapple generally don’t use Baconer (name of hog sent for processing) offal. They also use cornmeal rather than buckwheat. Anyhow, please save the date for next year and email me a tickler. Belated happy Bobby Burns Day, brought to you by “Tam o’Shanter” and ale and wives and drunken Charlie. Great read. Another for days like today and the past weekend is Frost’s “Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening.”

Approaching Valentine’s Day brought a plethora of sale solicitations. Let’s look at those I’ve critiqued. Recent articles claimed Champagne sales were off 6.4% in 2021. Previously, after roughly six months, we saw a decline in prices. If you are a buyer of Champagne, not sparklers in general, it may behoove you to hold off on purchases. My best buy is André Chemin Tradition Blanc de Noir NV under $35. Sample purchased from Gary’s in Wayne, N.J., after it won platinum at Decanter World. Three years on lees provided lots of yeasty toast, apple pie, butterscotch and almond aromas. Nose repeats thru palate, apple, brioche, toast with lovey acidic lift. Long, complex finish, 92 McD, great value. Those less concerned with price due to the upcoming lovers’ day should look for my fav, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Yellow Label Brut NV under $50. This is not the Ponsardine. Those who wish to step up and do some shopping can easily locate 2008 Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin La Grand Dame Brut vintage, 96 McD under $170 for shoppers. You know I’m a value shopper. These aged Champagnes are worth the money, at least once. Compares very favorably to Cristal, Dom Perignon and other top-line Millesime labels at $350-$400. I buy “the old lady” because they don’t sell the sizzle and are very consistent with NV and reflective of vintages. Recent news - Louis Roederer is discontinuing its NV Champagne. 

Those shopping domestic can look to Sonoma for Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut (grapefruit zest, green apple and fresh-baked bread), or their Wedding Cuvee, both 93 McD respectively under $36 or $40. There are a bunch of under-$20 Brut rating 88-90 points for NV: Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon Brut, Gruet from New Mexico is a top McD pick, Meiomi N. Coast, and Roederer Estate Brut, $25, are all decent buys. All of these make a range of sparklers into the $50s and higher. Tricky Dick Nixon’s favorite is still top-drawer Schramsberg J. Schram 2009 can be found under $120, 94 McD; WE said 97. For my money this rivals the Grand Dame. If your Valentine voted for Hillary or President Biden and is a certain age, this may be a poor choice. They do produce a very lovely $41, 91 McD, Brut Rosé. Avoid 2017, but buy the 2016 with both hands. The 2015 was best recent release, 92 McD. Brilliant copper with cherry and tart apple aromas, generous effervescence. Aging two years on lees provides lovely brioche flavors, well balanced, with a long, clean finish.

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