Share: 

It’s time to think about Easter season wines

April 2, 2022

In 2019, I reviewed Domaine Paul Mas wines, most of which were the 2017s, in preparation for the Easter season and had a  favorable group of feedback emails. I decided to take a look at the new release. Domaine Paul Mas Brut Rosé Cremant de Limoux, NV, from Languedoc, Roussillon, France, is  a beautiful salmon color with an active fine bead. It is quite delicious, rating 89 McD, and $17 price gets an extra point. This blend of Chard, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir brings strawberries, lemon curd and apple aromas with citrus and apple flavors, and bright acidity supporting a long, clean finish. The Blanc de Blanc NV at $16 is also a bargain. Floral nose and lemon palate extend through the finish. Domaine Paul Mas was established in 1995. Current CEO is Jean-Claude Mas, a prominent chef du vin and grape grower with 12 domaines in his portfolio. He was in the vanguard of new-wave winos who put Languedoc back on the map. His sense of humor suits me also. Following are some example names: Arrogant Frog, Croak Rotie, Lily Pad Noir and Blanc, Tutti Frutti Blanc and Ribet. Paul Mas La Forge Estate Viognier Reserve 2019 was very well received, $17/88 points, showing golden straw color with peach and oaken vanilla from barrel aging. Oak shows up again in the long finish. Those who enjoy Viognier will recognize that prices under $20 are rare. Those serving roast brisket or lamb may wish to buy some 90 McD Paul Mas Coteaux du Languedoc Chateau Paul Mas Clos des Mures 2019. If you get lucky and see the 2017, 91 McD under $24, buy as much as you can drink before 2025. It won gold at Concours General Agricole. Dry, medium-bodied with black raspberry, cherry, cocoa, dried herbs and tobacco notes.

Ehlers Estate Napa Cab 2018 is blended of Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Cab Franc and aged 22 months in 49% new oak. To date, it’s their highest-rated wine by consensus. I was surprised it was approachable now, given its construction, especially considering the 20% CF and long oak exposure. Generally, CF is added to provide tannin and color. As expected, the wine was a very dark purple with a dark-garnet rim. On opening, the nose was slightly closed. Decanting released a complex bouquet redolent of black currant, black licorice, with a hint of oak. On the palate, the mouthfeel is smooth, balanced, with proper acidity, and flavors of black currant and blackberry with crushed stone minerality and oak, maybe a hint of anise. Very dry, it initially showed too much tannin for my palate. Decanting relaxed the tannic grip, which settled down after a half-hour. The wine will drink now but improves with some cellaring and has at least 10 years of longevity, 93 McD but adding 1 price point. Under $65, it is stealing.

Stonestreet Estate Alexander Valley Cab 2017 and ‘16, both 92 McD, produced by Jess Jackson’s son Christopher, are 100% Cab Sauv aged 19 months in 38% new French oak, another great buy at $45. They also sell Stonestreet Estate Rockfall. With the exception of a 90-point 2014, the past seven vintages have rated 92 or better. These will set you back $100-$159. No list of value West Coast Cabs is complete which doesn’t include Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells from Washington state. I am curious to learn how the sale in 2021 by Altria (Phillip Morris) to Sycamore Partners will change its product. The 2018, 89 McD under $18, is a full-bodied wine blended with 13% Syrah, 1% Merlot and 1% CF that shows ripe berry, black cherry, and dried fine herbs aromas on this well-balanced Cab. 

Ron emailed me: Why don’t you review wine rated under 87 points, McD? My answer is, due to the abundance of those rating higher with excellent QPR.  My ratings consider price, which is somewhat unique. I find issues such as relative value germane to critiquing. I have learned that a mixed $400 case of 92-94-point wine provides far more enjoyment than a single 100-point bottle at the same price. The $30-$40 price point also appears to be the most common requested in my emails. When I first began the column, it was $15-$25.

Subscribe to the CapeGazette.com Daily Newsletter