Merlot wines are approachable and food-friendly

Here’s a twofer. A California Merlot, Gnarly Head 2019, scored 90 points McD and costs under $11. Most times GHead rates in the mid-80s McD. Longtimers may remember, due to the plethora of wine available, I rarely write of wine I rate under 88 points unless there is a request, or I think the possibility for improvement in cellar or the pricing is particularly favorable. This is all three of those times. FYI, 2019 in much of California was a a great vintage. Spring rain replenished moisture and was followed by a long, sunny summer with few heat anomalies. The Gnarly Head ‘19 has aromas of boysenberry, cherry, mocha, leather, some smoke but not smoke taint, and a hint of vanilla. Not as soft as many Merlots, full-bodied with good balance and a mixed palate of smoked meat, coffee and mocha which continues through its clean finish. Those who enjoy wine and dessert should try some with a dense chocolate cake with mocha icing. Off the scale. Also goes well with Italian and sausage or beef on the barbie. Chateau Souverain Merlot 2018, $11, 89 McD and Rodney Strong Sonoma Merlot 2019, $17, 90 McD are also excellent. 

The 2004 movie “Sideways” was well done in many respects. Downside, it trashed Merlot and Cab Franc. Miles, played well by Paul Giamatti, went off on Merlot and named Cab Franc as insipid. The cognoscenti moaned. Many less-informed wino moviegoers decided to “move up” to Pinot Noir and Cab, and that’s too bad. They missed the message that Merlot is approachable in its youth, while PN and Cab, in most cases, need cellaring to get into drinkable balance. Few noted that Miles’ favorite wine, Chateau Cheval Blanc 1961, is a blend of Merlot and Cab Franc, and that in fact, most top-flight Right Bank Bordeaux are primarily Merlot with a soupcon of Cab F, Cab S, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Here are some famous Right Bank labels: Petrus is most famous, $4,200/bottle; La Fleur $950, Ausone $950, Cheval Blanc $875, Le Pin $875. In a bad year, most rate 94 or better, and their prices have risen more than inflation in every instance.

Recognizing that these are outside most folks’ price/enjoyment range, shop for Chateau Pavie Macquin Grand Cru 2016 under $100, 94 McD. If you are patient, shop for Chateau De Pressac Grand Cru 2019, around $30 gets 93 McD, ready 2026-40. Any vintage since 2015 is safe. Look for regional labels that read Pomerol or St. Emilion, 2016 or 2019, some other less well-known right bank regions where we find Petit Chateau. Among others are Cotes de Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac Canon-Fronsac, and Cotes de Bourg, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in France; it is known for Chateau Roc de Cambes. The 2016, 93 McD, is findable around $65. Notes read black cherry, truffle, chocolate, tobacco, licorice, smoke nose; juicy, full-bodied fruit undergirded with earth notes, ready 2025. Those who are unfamiliar can buy either vintage of the wine. Here’s a 2019 92 McD for $14, Chateau Teyssier 2019. Other vintages rated 88-89 points, 2016 and ‘19, were also great years on both banks. It is noteworthy that St. Emilion, the largest, oldest, active producing region in Bordeaux, is the only classified region there that updates ratings every 10 years.

Why so much ink on Merlot? It is one of the more approachable reds out there. Although these obviously have color and tannin from the grape skins, Merlot and Cab Franc are not as forward as Cab Sauv in the tannin dept. That is broad brush, of course. These are far more food-friendly than either PN or Cab, which are designed for quaffing, in most instances, and generally more expensive. They go particularly well with a wide variety of winter fare, including turkey and its traditional accompaniments, red-sauced dishes, caramelized root veggies, cheese gratins, charcuterie, sharp cheeses, garlic, braised or broiled meat, and rich chocolate desserts. Due to its color, Merlot’s name is derived from Merle, the French name for blackbird. Great source of resveratrol. Good health!