As expected, Sea Witch was done very well in Rehoboth. Thank you to all who worked so hard to continue this fun tradition. Let’s look at Moscato Cantine Ermes Vento di Mare Sicily NV, $12, 86 points. I allowed this past the 87-point screen due to it being a good-value semi-sparkling wine. Slightly sweet with enough acidity to keep it clean. Look for peach, orange blossom and a hint of trop fruit aromas. Switch regions to the Piedmont and find a 92 McD 2020 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti DOCG. As expected when moving farther north, the wine changes character. Saracco may be the bellwether producer with all things Asti, which are Moscato driven. His Moscato d’Asti has rated 90 McD or better since 2014. The 2020 is 92 points, and best of all, it is findable under $15. They will cellar. Two best recent vintages are 2018 and 2020, both 92 McD. These are aromatic with lovely floral notes. Saracco also makes a wonderful Grappa di Moscato d’Autunno around $27 per 1/2 liter, 86 proof/43% alcohol. This is available at Pennsylvania Liquor Control, so probably can be had here.
Both sparklers are frizzante. Brief primer. Both frizzante, gently sparkling, and spumante, more effervescent and fully sparkling, describe the strength of the bubbles in a bottle of sparkling wine. Effervescence is measured in bars; frizzante is 2.5-3.5 bars and spumante/most Champagne 5-6. Those who wish to become knowledgeable should read this Wine Enthusiast article by Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl: winemag.com/2017/06/19/your-guide-to-becoming-an-expert-on-sparkling-wine. I’m informing all greens who love riding in limos or on private planes that Champagne bubbles are CO2. There are roughly 250 million, 20-micrometer bubbles per bottle. A study at U. Surrey in Great Britain claims that 5 minutes following consumption, those who consumed sparkling wine at 5-6 bars had 54 milligrams of alcohol in their blood while a group who drank similar wine gone flat had 39 milligrams. Just speculating here, the second group found the wine unsavory, like stale party-toasting wine.
2018 Napa Cabs are looking to be wonderful for those who can wait four to six years. Here is a listing. Nickel & Nickel Element 28 (periodic table number for nickel), 95 McD; N&N State Ranch Yountville, wrote this a few months ago, 94 McD; Far Niente Bella Union Rutherford, 93 McD, continues its skein of 90-plus-point, fairly valued Napa Cabs. Saw some on sale at $65. Blackberry, leather, earthy with a hint of raspberry aromas. These continue with barrel-driven cocoa and baking spice on the palate. Good balance although, as color suggests, tannins are a bit elevated. This should resolve with time. Long, clean finish adds in some thyme and black tea notes. Bella Oaks Proprietary Red Rutherford 2018, the first effort of Suzanne Deal Booth, was stunning. Unfortunately, it sold out. Keep an eye on this label for future purchase. Cliff Lede Poetry Stags Leap District Napa 2018 was rated 100 points by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of WA. At $360 I passed. Lisa, a credible reviewer, wrote (slightly edited for brevity), “Spiced berry aromas are layered with dark chocolate, fresh floral notes and enticing underlying minerally loam. The juicy berry and cassis flavors are as generous as they are bright, with great complexity lurking underneath. The tannins are serious but elegant, the profile is lush but focused and the finish is incredibly long.” All the other likely suspects raved and the price leaped. Best Napa price value is the 2014, ‘15 or ‘16 Beaulieu Vineyard BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley; can be found under $120, 94 McD. The 2015 is best.
I suggest you look toward Sonoma for your 2018 Cabs, though. Generally, far better values can be found there. Louis Martini produces Monte Rosso Cab in Sonoma, and you can buy the perfectly ready 2016 in Wilmington or Claymont for $70, McD 94, RP 95, WS 94, WE 94. Sebastiani is another old-line, 100-year-old Sonoma winery, and its Cherryblock Cab Sauvignon got a 97 from RP, who said ready 2021. It’s ready and can be purchased for $123. This is spectacular! I rate it 99 McD; nobody’s perfect. Old-line producers made food-friendly, affordable wines but were sensible enough to build in longevity without caving your cheeks in with tannin and oak. Some of these families are following tradition. CK Mondavi still makes a Cab under $8, and their 2016 Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Family Vintage Selection Cab, 93 McD, comes in under $110 for smart shoppers; RP said 95 points on 2018 release. Some 17 shops, including Pennsylvania Liquor Control, have some for sale, and cases of 12 are available for $1,260. These will stand up to most 93-95-point $300 bottles.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
