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Take advantage of end-of-summer Rosé sales

September 11, 2017

Those with storage and a few extra bucks lying around can shop smartly during the next few weeks. You will see ads galore for Rosé on sale as summer wanes. First let me assure you, many Rosé wines will cellar well. Even though critics tell you to drink yesterday, the best will hold up. 2016 was very dry in Provence. It received 1/3 the normal rainfall, about 20 inches. While this condition produced smaller berries and roughly 30 percent less juice, most growers and experts agreed the Mourvedre varietal, the primary ingredient in white, red and rosé in the Bandol Region, was far above norm in quality. As regular readers may remember, less juice means greater concentration. It also means thicker skins and possibly more tannin. The winemakers need to be on their game, especially during extraction, to prevent overly tannic product. As an interesting side note, many growers from Bandol complained that their second largest problem was warding off the wild boars. No joke! Seems that drought conditions caused them to lose their natural food and water supplies, and they stepped up their raids on the vineyards. Many who haven't visited the more remote regions of France likely don't realize there is still a great deal of undeveloped land and forests, especially in the mountainous départements. Most of the "wild boar" are actually feral pigs, such as we have in our Southern states.

Here are a few from Provence to which I gave top grades. Keep your eyes peeled for them. Chateau des Bormettes Instinct Parcellaire Rosé Cotes de Provence la Londe 2016, 92 points under $18. Domaine la Grand'Vigne Rosé Coteaux Varois-en-Provence is a strong 91 points and you may buy it well under $15. I saw a case for sale at $119. Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2016 is lovely but a bit pricey around $40.

Let's not ignore good ole USA. Check out Klinker Brick Lodi 2015, 90 points McD under $15. Dry, crisp acidity with fresh pink grapefruit and white peach flavors. From Oregon, Sokol Blosser Estate Cuvee of Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2015 were 89 McD under $20. The 2016 is slightly better. Look for strawberries and racy acidity. A case should run you less than $225. I had to sample one named Summer Water Rosé 2016 from California's Central Coast. Avoid. Nice raspberry hints but you can do better on price, 85 McD.

For those who prefer sweeter Rosé that isn't cloying, check out Apothic. Darker copper-pink, with strawberry/watermelon notes and raspberry nuance. Acidity and sweetness are well-balanced, so it finishes cleanly, 87 under $14. Underwood, from Oregon, comes in cans, bottles and your choice of bubbly or regular. Sorry, I couldn't get my head around it. I'm an old fogey traditionalist.

Last, but far from least, Lewes' own Nassau Valley Vineyards makes a very lovely Cape Rosé, 90 McD, for around $18. These are not your garden variety sweet type but European, lean, huge upfront fruit lovelies, redolent with strawberries. Perfect with flounder, crab, lobster and local shellfish. Hold the lemon, puhlese. Try stewing some local clams or lobster in butter, Cape Rosé, and a dash of salt and fresh black pepper. You will need to visit the vineyard to glom some, but it is a lovely place and the perfect time of the year. Be sure to say hi to Peggy and Suzanne.

Word is coming in on the 2017 harvest. Worldwide, it is running very early with some regions already picking Cabernet Sauvignon.

Word has it that the drought and heat-driven early ripening may result in whites not having proper acidity, causing them to be a bit fat. I'm guessing some winemakers will try to ameliorate with more tannin extraction and use of oak. I would advise those who enjoy Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Cali SB and dry Chenin Blanc with their oysters to lay in some of the 2015 Oregon and Washington state whites.

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