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Toast the summer, prepare for the holidays with diverse sparklers

September 16, 2019

I just had one of my best Mondays ever. Bus and car loads of Coastal Sussex folks came down to Grove Market for dinner. Initially, I thought this was a coordinated event, but a few conversations let me know it was happenstance. Just an end-of-season, get-out-of-Dodge evening. Anyhow, it was nice to see so many friendly faces. Writing of friendly faces, Rick, and other resellers, check out Benchmark Wine Group. They buy and sell quality vintage products with good provenance. Nothing but good reports on them.

A quick FYI for those going near Pikesville, Md. Just saw an ad for the highly touted 2013 Dominus Proprietary Red 2013, with half bottles for sale at $149. Yeah, I know that’s big bucks, but in this case, it is worth the cash. Many rated it 98-100 points (Jeff Leve, RP and Tony Gallons 100 points) on release for full bottles at $311. Current price is above $380. I think the 2013 is their best effort to date. Big-buck buckaroos and Ravens fans can kill two birds with one stone and call Wine Loft in Catonsville, then take the back roads home to avoid Pete and the Gov’s revenoors. Yeah, I know, beating the same old dead horse. 

The Geisen Brothers left Germany for Marlborough, New Zealand, to found their winery in 1981. Their recent diverse lines of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot have hit their stride. From $11 to mid-$30s, I found all products tasted to be well made and good value. Rare in my experience. The $11 SB Marlborough is a solid 88 McD. Green-tinged, pale yellow-colored, it opens to mint and apple. Winemaker says “crushed nettle” rather than mint, but how many know the crushed-nettle aroma? Although there are certainly some fruit notes, I would classify it as an herbal nose. On the palate, fruit sweetness shines through with some peach, pineapple and apple. Don’t be fooled by the fruit; the wine is very dry and finishes cleanly with fruit reverberating. The Brothers label 2016 is 89 points around $17; Single Vineyard Select at $14, 88 McD; the Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest 2013 was a fair value at $60. I was surprised at its low alcohol, around 10 percent. BTW, this is a 750 ml price.

The holidays are rapidly approaching, and nothing pleases a diverse-palate group of family and friends better than a nice Prosecco. Fortunately, I recently had the opportunity to sample several. Let’s start with Valdo Prosecco DOC Brut. You can find a case around $150. I prefer going a bit upscale to the Valdo Rosé Brut Vino Spumante Marca Oro around $168/case. There is something about the lovely medium strawberry color that adds to festive occasions. The Rosé shows a delicate strawberry and yeasty nose. On the creamy palate, look for more strawberry, some vanilla and citrus notes. This has a lovely tiny effervescing bead. Finishes dryly with fruit sweetness and a bit of minerality, ABV 12 percent. Valdo, like most Prosecco producers in Italy, has a full line of sparkling products, so read the label carefully. The Prosecco Brut is straightforward Glera, the new name for Prosecco grapes. A bright wine with good balance; look for pear and golden apple notes, 87 McD.

Here’s a sparkler I haven’t written of in several years, Cremant D’Alsace. Lucien Albrecht uses 100 percent free-run juice Pinot Noir. The grapes are picked early to ensure proper acidity. Using methode traditionnelle (traditional Champagne method), the wine is left sur lie in the bottle for 14-16 months following secondary fermentation. You should be able to buy a case of 750mls under $180, 89 McD. These are non-vintage, and the profile is consistent. Strawberries and red currant aromas with strawberry and brioche flavors are supported by a lovely creamy mousse; it finishes cleanly with a citrusy, palate-cleansing acidity. Try this with smoked salmon, crab Remick or shellfish. Oysters? Oh, yeah! Hold the lemon and cocktail sauce, please. You may have noted I recommended case buys. First sample a bottle, choose your fav and then buy a case to save a few bucks. All recommended store well – if you can keep the barbarian hordes at bay.

 

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