From Venus to Planet X to Blacksmith

Beneath the undercurrent of drama that often characterizes the Rehoboth restaurant scene (and I suppose that of any small town), there are always the stalwart few who quietly toil away, day in and day out, year after year, keeping their restaurants at the highest quality by working hard and being there all the time. These people don’t have time for drama - or much of anything else, for that matter. A restaurant is a 24/7 endeavor if you choose to do it right.

One of those steadfast restaurateurs who has made an indelible mark on our little beach town is Justine Zegna. By now, most everybody has heard that her landmark Planet X Café on Wilmington Avenue has given way to the expansion of the Avenue Inn. Lots of parking, renewed sidewalks and fresh landscaping will be some of the happy side effects, but that doesn’t mean that we won’t miss the unusual cocktails, the purple Buddha, the ancient chandeliers, the bobbing Japanese lanterns, the mirror-studded mosaics and pretty much anything she did with curry. A warm summer’s dinner on the glowing front porch had a distinctive Zen quality all its own.

Planet X Café was first conceived in Maryland as a coffee house, replete with all the obligatory coffee house stuff like poetry and music. In 1995, Justine moved it to its (now former) home on Wilmington Avenue. This wasn’t her first beach rodeo, however, and denizens of Dewey Beach still remember her equally eccentric Venus on the Half Shell, where Ivy restaurant and night club now stands.

While all this was happening, the little town of Berlin, Md., was quietly reinventing itself. In fact, Berlin was recently recognized as having the Best Social Media Campaign by the Maryland Tourism Council for its efforts to brand itself as America’s Coolest Small Town. Just 10 minutes west of Ocean City, Berlin was also part of the Visit Maryland Award given by the Maryland Office of Tourism to destinations that help further tourism in the state.

So, if I remember my math correctly, if we agree to call the old Planet X Café one of the coolest restaurants in Rehoboth, and if Berlin is, indeed, America’s Coolest Small Town (at least according to their social media), then it only makes sense that Justine and partner Drew Evans would re-create her dining concept there. Of course, changes had to be made (the tiny town of Berlin is not Wilmington Avenue), so the friendly neighborhood eatery is called Blacksmith, with lots of craft beers and low lighting. But Justine’s talent for putting a twist on pretty much anything shines through in the menu and in the art on the walls.

Take her Eastern Shore Bánh Mì, for example. Traditionally, a Bánh Mì is a Vietnamese hoagie, with roast pork loin, crunchy daikon, cucumbers and carrots, cilantro and peppers on a warm French baguette. Zegna’s Eastern Shore version leans in the BBQ pork direction. Though the mandatory pickled veggies, cilantro and cucumbers are there, the addition of scrapple and crunchy chicharrones validates the Eastern Shore moniker. And her House Burger with homemade pickles and melted cheddar is one of the best I’ve had. Wait ‘til you taste the sauce.

Memories of Planet X Café remain on the menu in the form of Justine’s famous Thai-style meatballs, pappardelle pasta with roasted mushrooms and butternut squash, and a roasted cauliflower steak with local veggies and balsamic-laced butter. Slices of potatoes Anna add the finishing touch.

Fans of that soon-to-be-history purple building on Wilmington Avenue might want to take a little field trip to visit Justine in her new digs and let her know she is still loved. Blacksmith is open at 11:30 a.m. daily, and is closed on Sundays. Call 410-973-2102 to make sure.