Beer dinner pairs classy comfort food with great brews

Last week, we attended a beer dinner at Crust & Craft restaurant. When I consider buying a ticket for a food-and-beverage pairing (options have included wine, beer and bourbon), I pay more attention to the descriptions of the food courses than the liquid refreshments. That was certainly the case for this meal, which opened with one of my favorites, burrata.

Burrata is a fresh cheese that originated in the Puglia region of Italy. It’s made from a combination of mozzarella and cream. A soft outer shell of mozzarella encases a rich center of stracciatella (shredded mozzarella) and cream. When your fork opens a ball of burrata, the milky center oozes out, mixing with whatever seasoning shares the plate. The presentation of our appetizer was delicate and elegant. 

In the photo, you can see the ivory cheese ball surrounded by colorful accompaniments: a sliver of roasted golden beet topped with a section of blood orange and a decorative sorrel leaf. The drizzle of olive oil was sprinkled with red beet dust, and everything received a scattering of candied pistachios. For those at the table who had never before tasted burrata, the flavors were a delicious surprise.

Paired with this dish was the first beer selection, Crisp Lager from the New Trail Brewing Company of Pennsylvania. According to their website, they started brewing in 2018 with a combined mission of preserving the wild wonders of the great outdoors across the state while at the same time brewing great beer. Cleverly named, each beer captures an aspect of outdoor adventures, including Lift Pass, Flannel Weather, Bonfire and Kayak. 

Crisp Lager is handmade with only four ingredients: malt, American Noble hops, Pennsylvania mountain water and lager yeast. The result is a brilliant golden beer that we all named as our favorite. The second appetizer was lobster arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with cheese in a lobster cream sauce), which needed the bright citrus and tropical notes from Broken Heels Hazy IPA. Its signature flavor profile came from a blend of citrus and mosaic hops. 

Osso buco, the main course, was the highlight of the meal, not only for its rich, complex flavors, but for the fact that Chef Bruce did not receive his expected shipment of ingredients until earlier in the day. This dish features slow-braised veal shanks simmered with vegetables, tomatoes, wine and stock, creating a fall-off-the-bone tender dish. The name means "bone with a hole," which refers to the marrowbone seen at the center of the shank. The dish is topped  with gremolata, a fresh, zesty condiment made from finely chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest.

Although the recipe includes lots of ingredients, it is simple to execute. One key to a good result is to make sure you brown the veal shanks thoroughly. Take your time to create a deep, golden-brown crust in order to lay the foundation for a wonderful sauce. For serving, osso buco is typically plated over creamy risotto or polenta. This course was paired with an IPA called Trail Marker, a perfect companion with hints of orange zest.

By the time our server cleared the table, we were all too full to appreciate dessert, so we ordered our chocolate cherry tarts to go. Of course, we had to taste the final beer, Painted Sky, a Belgian white that was light and refreshing. I’ve included my favorite recipe for osso buco, adapted from Lidia Bastianich’s cookbook, “Lidia’s Italian Table.”

Osso Buco*

4 veal shanks, 2 inches thick
1/2 C flour
6 T olive oil
1 C diced carrot
1 C chopped onion
1 C diced celery
2 crushed garlic cloves
2 T chopped rosemary
6 sage leaves
1 C dry white wine
1 C crushed plum tomatoes
2 C chicken broth
1 T tomato paste
salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat olive oil in ovenproof pan. Dredge veal shanks in flour, shaking off excess. Brown veal shanks completely, turning often. Remove veal to a plate; add carrot, onion and celery to the pan. Sauté until tender. Add garlic and sauté for another minute. Stir in rosemary, sage wine, tomatoes, broth and tomato paste. Return meat to the pan and spoon sauce over shanks. Cover and bake until the meat is pulling away from the bone, about 1 1/2 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over polenta or risotto, sprinkled with gremolata. Yield: 4 servings. *Adapted from Lidia Bastianich.

Gremolata

3 T finely chopped parsley
1 minced garlic clove
Zest of one lemon

Stir together until combined. Use as a garnish for osso buco.