Onions: Complex, pungent, often sweet

When it snowed late last week, Jack’s sister told us, “Mother would have called this an onion snow.” Although not exactly sure what it meant, she supposed it had something to do with planting onions, which turned out to be a good guess.

This is a strictly Pennsylvania Dutch colloquialism that describes the last snow to fall before spring begins. The snowfall is light and melts quickly from streets and walkways, leaving just a dusting on the grass. The timing coincides with the thaw that leaves the soil defrosted enough to plant onions.

There are two other types of snowstorms that have curious names in local lore: the sapling-bender - a heavy, wet snow, strong enough to weigh down tree limbs, and the crack-stuffer - a fine, dry snow accompanied by a brisk wind. But back to the onions.

These pungent, juicy bulbs used in countless culinary applications have been enjoyed since prehistoric times, making regular appearances in Egyptian tomb paintings. Botanically, onions are members of the allium family, and today there are hundreds of varieties ranging widely in size and flavor.

Onions come in several colors, from deep purple to golden to pure white (see photo). They also can be harvested based on whether you want to use just the bulb or some of the green stalk that grows up from the ground, like leeks and green onions (sometimes called scallions).

Both garlic and shallots are also members of this family, and you can tell they’re past their prime when they start to send out shoots. There’s a charming cultivar called tree onions or walking onions. As the green stalk grows, it forms another miniature bulb at the tip. Once it's heavy enough to drag down the stalk, the new bulb plants itself and continues the process.

Sweeter varieties of onions include the Vidalia, Maui and Walla-Walla. More colorful types are the red Bermuda, which has a mild flavor and does best when served raw in a salad, since cooking drains its bright color.

The most common onions are Spanish onions, which are seen in both white and yellow forms. Next time you reach for a yellow (sometimes called brown) onion, be sure to save the papery skin. Throw it in your next pot of broth to add a lovely golden color.

And, when you start to peel and chop onions, try keeping them under running water. They release the volatile and irritating substance called allicin when cut, so either drown them or chill them thoroughly before cutting.

Cooking onions will transform their harsh bite into an almost sweet flavor that is even more pronounced in the hybrids developed especially for their sweetness. Caramelizing onions is the process of transforming their starch into dextrin and sugar, and creating a lovely brown color.

Onion soup is one of the simplest ways to feature the complex flavor of slow-simmered sliced onions. The best liquid ingredient for this dish is veal broth or vegetable broth; beef is too strong and chicken is too light. I prefer this without the floating bread and melted cheese, which overwhelm the subtlety of the rich flavors.

If you see the term soubise on the menu at a French restaurant, you may expect a sauce of slow-cooked onions thickened with rice.

Although the recipe takes some time to cook, the steps are quite simple and the results are a delicious comfort-food side dish. Since she so deftly incorporated onions in so many recipes, these are both based on Julia Child’s versions. One bite and you’ll be ready to plant more onions.

Soubise*

1/2 C arborio rice
2 qts boiling water
1 1/2 T salt
4 T butter
6 C thinly sliced onions
1/2 t salt
1/8 t white pepper
1/4 C heavy cream
1/4 C grated Swiss cheese
1 T softened butter
1 T minced parsley

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Add rice to rapidly boiling water; cook for 6 minutes. Drain rice into a sieve and set aside; discard water. Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. When butter begins to foam, add onions and stir thoroughly to coat with butter. Mix in salt, pepper and blanched rice. Cover the pot and place in the preheated oven. Bake until very tender and golden, about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Fold in cream, Swiss cheese and butter. Garnish with parsley and serve. *After Julia Child

Onion Soup*

5 C thinly sliced onions
3 T butter
1 T olive oil
1 t salt
1/4 t sugar
3 T flour
2 qts veal or vegetable stock
1/2 C dry white wine
salt & pepper, to taste
3 T cognac
grated Parmesan cheese

Melt butter with oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Stir in onions and cover. Cook over medium-low until onions are translucent, about 15 minutes. Remove cover and raise heat to medium. Stir in salt and sugar; cook until onions are deep brown in color, about 35 minutes, stirring often. Sprinkle flour over the onions and stir to dissolve.

Add the stock and wine; simmer partially covered for 40 minutes. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Keeping the soup at a gentle simmer, whisk in the cognac. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese as a garnish.

*After Julia Child