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Check wine labels and prices carefully to really get what you want

September 30, 2019

Big-Buck Buyers may wish to refrain from jumping on the presales for top-of-the-line 2016 Napa Cabs at current prices, such as Insignia at $246 and Opus 1 at $350. Not because they aren’t excellent, but because most are claiming the 2018s are perfect. Point of information for those who are new to this page: Most big-name Napa Cabs are released at least two years after the wine is made. Napa Vintners Report wrote: “Seamless season of heavenly hangtime and phenomenal phenolic development.” I’m guessing, because I haven’t sampled any ‘18s yet, that if all reports are accurate, the ‘16s will come off in price. A good example is the 2013 Insignia, which was also highly touted, opened around $260 and can be found in Delaware under $200. I recommended the 96-point 2012 when it dropped from $238 on release to $202 six months later and the ‘13s were being bruited about. The window just opened and it is selling for $222. I still think it is a bargain here and has at least 20 more years cellar life. 

Returning to reality, Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG is a cut above your average Lady and the Tramp wine. Frescobaldi has been in the wine biz for seven centuries. Frescobaldi has been managing this estate since 2014 and took it over in 2018, prior to releasing the 2015 Riserva. Although Frescobaldi has holdings in Rufina, Maremma and Brunello di Montalcino, among others, this is their first effort from the Chianti Classico Region. At $38, McD 93 points, it shows the classic roses, cherries and violet aromas I expected. Proper, slightly elevated tannins and bright acidity support the bouquet and body. Closes cleanly with some forest floor and walnut notes. Regulars know I am price conscious; this lovely is worth its price. 

Jayson Woodbridge is creator of Hundred Acres Cabs and Layer Cake. An interesting winemaker who tells a quixotic story of naming Cherry Pie Tri County Pinot Noir after viewing a picture in a Soho art gallery in NYC. The juice for Cherry Pie 2017 is derived from PN grapes originating 63 percent in Monterey, 21 percent Santa Barbara and 16 percent Napa. Diverse nose shows cherries, plums, and oak-driven pie spice. On the palate, look for more cherries, hints of rhubarb and nutmeg. You should find this 89-point wine priced under $20. Great entry-level PN. Read labels for Cherry Pie carefully. This is not the Napa Carneros or the Cherry Tart, which are also Woodbridge products. 

The Black Cat 9 Lives Reserve Cab (its real name is Vina San Pedro Gato Negro Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon) is from the Chilean Central Valley and can be had under $112/case. Rarely do I write about wine rated under 87 points, but in this case, the value price gets it to 87-88 due to price points. Very dark ruby color was endorsed by tea in the bouquet, while cherry and vanilla filled out the aromas. Moderate tannins and appropriate acidity complete the flavor profile. Try a bottle around $11, and if it suits, this could be your house Cab. I wrote of Black Cat 2015 in 2017 when it won a few bronze medals. These are not for the cellar. Their Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2018 is also a fine buy around $10. Pale green-tinged golden with floral bouquet, some apple and lemon notes as well. On the clean palate, grapefruit rules the day. 

Casa Santos Lima Colossal Red Blend Reserva 2015 blended of Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet can be found under $10 at Costco. I took a look at it because my curiosity was piqued by another of their offerings named Stones and Bones. S&B is consistent between 87-89 points and runs $13. The Colossal was a cut above for me, 91 points for a $12 wine. Dark ruby with aromas of dark fruit and dried herbs. On the palate, black cherry, mocha and mineral accents with moderate tannins. Short finish but above-average QPR at $8.95 at Costco.

 I’m dancing in anticipation of the Vintage Import tasting on Wednesday. Will report on my findings over the next few weeks. The good news is that all the wines will be available locally.

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