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Coming down the home stretch for Easter wines

March 30, 2018

Before the last wine for Easter recommendations, let me suggest Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Chard 2015. In the past I have written up Stonestreet’s Upper Barn; the 2012 was 94 points and there’s still some on the market around $75. Their Bear Point Chardonnay 2011 and ‘12, $60, were 91 and 92 points respectively and are drinking beautifully right now. RP with 95-96 points and Tanzer 93 loved them. Tanzer, you may remember, is a very tough marker. The Mountain Estate is a blend of several of Stonestreet vineyards’ juice, and winemaker Lisa Valtenberg has blended a beauty, priced around $360/case. If you see some on your shelves, snap them up. This is old-time Chard with lots of apple, warm bread, pineapple and honeysuckle. Big, round, buttery mouthfeel, with unctuous tropical fruit flavors and butterscotch, all supported by plenty of minerally acidity. The finish is long, clean, with some barrel spice shining through. A bit alcoholic at 14-15 percent, but it is integrated. It gets 2 price points under $32. The 2014 and ‘13 were also quite delicious, 90 points.

Les Dauphins Cotes du Rhone Reserve won’t break the bank. Under $12, it goes well with lamb or “green” hams. Made to drink now. Look for Grenache nose, with black currant and spice on the palate, subdued tannins, and clean finish, 88 McD points.  

Best effort since the 2012. Amici miei Italiano, check out Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Rosso DOC 2015, 90 points under $24. This label is one of my perennial winners. The wine rates in a very tight 88-90 range going back to 2007. The 2015 is 70 percent Sangiovese, 15 percent each Sagrantino and Merlot, aged in oak barrels and barriques. Dark reddish-violet, opens to black cherry, dried herbs, a bit of lavender and pepper aroma.  

On the round palate, berries and plums, acid to balance fruit, and soft tannins to clean up all. Great with a charcuterie antipasto with Italian hard cheese. 

Those who prefer Italian-seasoned, barbequed lamb, take a look at Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2014. Another perennial well-made offering rating McD 88 or better since 2001.  

The 2014 is a recent release and may not be on your shelves yet. Don’t despair! The ‘10, ‘11 and ‘12 are McD 90, under $20. All are 90 percent Sangiovese plus a 10 percent soupcon of Nera, Malvasia, Colorino, Cab and Merlot. I’ve been drinking this wine since the 1970s. It takes a very rare, bad-weather vintage to produce a wine that doesn’t please. The 2014 is a very solid 91 points. No price points though, as it is selling in the mid-$20s after winning gold at Mundus Vini 2017 as Best Chianti.  

Look for red fruit, cherry, black pepper plus wood-driven vanilla and cedar, soft tannins, well-balanced fruit/acidity, a bit of chocolate and nut nuance at the finish. Just entered its drinking window thru 2021. Don’t misunderstand, this is a good buy, just not a steal. A tad better than the 2007. If you have cellared any of my previous recommendations, it’s time to enjoy the ‘10, ‘11 and ‘12. The 2009 still has 3-4 years on it.

Normally the words “cool growing season” are a warning flag for reds. Apparently with Baroli, it is the harbinger of a banner year. The last three best vintages from the region that I’ve sampled occurred in 2006, 2010 and 2013. All were cool seasons and rated 95+. I’ve stopped covering Barolo because the bellwethers such as Conterno Monfortino take years to mature, and many come on the market over $300. Come on! is the appropriate word choice. In fairness, the 2010 came on at $309 May 2014 and is selling at $1,560, and the 2004s are at $1,850. That’s per bottle, folks. The recent article by Bruce Sanderson in WS claimed one could purchase the 97-point Monfortino 2010 for $750. Big-buck buckaroos with proper cellars should contact Bruce and buy all he has at that price. Best I could find was in NYC at $1,700/bottle.  

They won’t be ready until 2025 at the earliest. As a 75-year-old dotard, and a curmudgeonly, close-fisted, commonsewer, I’m passing, just as I did on the bunny recipe. I prefer three mixed cases of great Chianti, Rosso, or two of Brunello di Montalcino to one bottle I need to sit on for 10 years.

Have a joyous, happy Easter, my friends.

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