Deviled eggs have been delighting guests since ancient times

Now that we’ve finished celebrating the Easter holiday, we can begin finding clever ways to use up all those beautifully dyed eggs we hid (and hopefully found) on Sunday morning. Among the first ideas that spring to mind are the familiar and delicious deviled eggs seen at cocktail parties, potlucks, picnics and church suppers.

How long has this dish been around? The answer goes way back, as they were on the menu in Ancient Rome. At that time, it was common to serve guests boiled eggs dressed in spicy sauces at the start of a multi-course meal. One of the earliest versions of the dish appears in a collection by Marcus Gavius Apicius, “Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome.” The answer to our first question is the fourth or fifth century BC.

How did this evolve into the half-shell of boiled egg white filled with fluffy, flavored yolk mixture we know today? During the 13th century, stuffed eggs appeared on the table in the Andalusian region of southern Spain. The mashed yolks were seasoned with coriander, peppers and onion juice, then mixed with a fermented fish sauce and salt. 

By the 15th century, these eggs became popular across Europe, with additions to the yolk including raisins and cheese along with various herbs and seasonings. According to food historians, the term “deviled” emerged in the late 18th century, describing a dishes that were heavily spiced, including a “devil’d lamb kidney.” The timing coincides with the expansion of the spice trade, which made these seasonings more readily available.

Looking to America, we find Fanny Merritt Farmer including a recipe for “stuffed eggs” in her 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. Unlike our modern deviled eggs, her version adds cheese, mustard and vinegar to the yolks, along with enough melted butter to reach the desired consistency. In my research, several websites incorrectly cited this as the first recipe to use mayonnaise as a binder.

You cannot mention the modern American version of deviled eggs without considering the inclusion of mayonnaise. Prepared mayonnaise became widely available during the 1920s, but the popularity of deviled eggs didn’t surge until the 1940s, perhaps due to the series of difficult international events such as World War I and the Depression. In the 1926 Metropolitan Life Cookbook, published by the life insurance company, the recipe for deviled eggs still used vinegar as the key flavoring. 

By the 1940s, cooks consistently turned to mayonnaise as the key ingredient in creamy, rich deviled eggs. However, the regional variations are numerous and almost every family has a “secret” recipe for the “best” deviled eggs. Some feature yellow mustard, while others prefer the heat of Dijon. Hellman’s and Duke’s are popular brands of mayonnaise, but there are a few Miracle Whip aficionados, as well.

With these basics as the backbone of the recipe, you will often see surprise additions to the yolk mixture, such as pickle relish, chopped black olives, anchovies or grated onion. Of course, the garnishes are the final signature. From snipped chives to capers to caviar, there’s no limit to the possibilities except one’s imagination. I’ve included a recipe for the way I make my deviled eggs, along with one that comes from a recent Bon Appetit magazine, which advocates including both whole boiled eggs and the yolks in the stuffing mixture. These truly earn their name of “deviled” because of the additional heat from sriracha.

Basic Deviled Eggs
6 eggs
1/4 C mayonnaise
1 t Dijon mustard
1/8 t cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper, to taste
Paprika, for garnish
Snipped chives, for garnish

Place the eggs in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover them by a couple of inches. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Once the water boils, remove pan from heat and cover. Let the eggs stand in the hot water for 15 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a colander and place under cold running water. Remove the eggs one at a time, tap to crack the shell and peel under running water. Set aside to drain. Once eggs are peeled, slice them in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks to a small bowl. Arrange the whites in a single layer on a serving platter or egg dish; set aside. Add mayonnaise and mustard to the yolks; mash with a fork until smooth. Add cayenne, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the yolk mixture to a zip-top bag, press to remove air and seal. Snip off a corner and pipe the mixture into the white halves. Sprinkle with paprika and garnish with snipped chives.  

Double-Stuffed Deviled Eggs*
9 eggs
salt and pepper 
1/3 C mayonnaise
1 T Dijon mustard
1 t sriracha
pinch salt
snipped chives, for garnish

Fill a large saucepan with 1/2 inch of water; bring to a rolling boil. Using a spoon, lower the eggs into the pan one at a time. Cover and simmer for 9 minutes. Remove eggs from the pan into a bowl of ice water; allow to sit for 10 minutes. Peel the eggs, discarding the shells; place peeled eggs on paper towels to dry. Slice 6 eggs in half lengthwise, placing the yolks in the bowl of a food processor. Arrange the whites on a serving platter in a single layer; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and set aside. Place the remaining 3 eggs in the food processor. Add mayonnaise, mustard, sriracha and salt. Process, scraping the sides, until the mixture is smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes. Transfer the yolk mixture to a zip-top bag, press to remove air and seal. Snip off a corner and pipe the mixture into the white halves. Garnish with snipped chives. *Adapted from Bon Appetit.